My layout is 4 foot high and when first built I kept the width ( for reaching purposes) not more that 4 foot. However, from time to time I needed to add more track so I added to the width. This was OK when everything was working properly, but when repairs are necessary the reach gets a bit long. I am 6’ 4" tall so I can reach a long way, but this morning I had to make a repair (some soldering) and I could barely reach the repair area. I am certain others have had the same problem is spite of all the posts that have appeared to make sure the layout is not too wide. This is just another reminder to keep the width manageable.
Good point and tip . I have so far built my layouts strong enough that I can stand on them if I absolutely have to. Of course, kneeling goes along with that. Due to my layout’s height, near 50", and depth to the backdrop and highest tracks, and due to me being altitudinally challenged, I knew to make it Crandell-proof. So far, so good. [(-D]
Been there, done that. I built (an older layout–no longer with us) with 3’ tables against the wall, and found that even this was too deep to actually work on stuff, especially since there were tracks UNDER that hill!
I got 30 guys together, and we picked up the whole dang layout and moved it three feet! And that was NOT a simple layout! The resulting isles were a bit on the narrow side (I am not a bit on the narrow side) and I had to scoot in sideways, but it worked for many years. Now my widest table against the wall is 16" wide (x 40’ long) and built on three levels with a 90 degree turn in the middle.
Made the same mistake, mine started as a HO slot car track. It was L shaped, this is the long part.
When a car derailed, I used a magnet wand to get the car, no big deal. Try that with a derailed train.
Next layout 30 inch max against the wall!
Cuda Ken
My layout is 36 inches high and the part of the layout against the wall is 36 inches deep. I am 6 foot tall. I have a hard time reaching in that full 36 inches if I need to work on the layout for whatever the reason. Shoulda made it 30 inches deep.
Rich
I think thirty inches around the wall of a basement would be ideal. Unfortunately I have no basement[:'(]
I had to deal with three doors, a large window, a fireplace and a six foot wide entryway into the room. I am lucky to have the space I do as it is a nice place to be. But that left me in a position of having to make this six foot wide bench if I was to get the most out of my space. That being said an access hole in the middle of this bench allows for easy access to the back. After I have completed things at the back I will reinsert the piece of foam there with something on top of it that won’t mind being lifted up and out, just in case[:O]
It is actually quite easy to get down and up through the hole.[:)]
Brent[C):-)]
Lets see more of that layout Batman,it looke good.
Thanks Russell
Here is a couple more pic’s to give some perspective.
Brent[C):-)]
Looks good, Brent. How long is the incline to your upper level. Mine is 20 feet long, and is hidden behind scenery for the lower level. Luckily, that section of the layout is only 2 feet deep. I made the mountains for the upper level in 3 foot lengths that are removable to allow access to the incline.
Due to wanting some continuous running, I added a turn back loop to the ends of my long shelf layout. One end now has a depth of over 50 inches from the wall, but I do have access on three sides. However, there is about a 12 inch section of bench work that I cannot get to without getting on a stool. When I reworked my track, I made sure there was only solid pieces of track that spanned the inaccessible part. No joiners, turnouts, crossings, feeders, tunnels, complicated scenery etc… just open rails with ballast and some ground cover.
Since there is no real problematic stuff in that 12 inch void, there has never really been a reason to frequently access the track there. Occasional track cleaning can be done with a stool or a car.
So I think that keeping things simple in the inaccessible areas can make it tolerable and can allow you to keep the rest of your design.
Along with mentioning depth of workable space, it is worth mentioning the aisle width as well.
The aisle width should be at least 30 inches, no matter how “thin” you may be, and able to slip through tight spaces.
I learned that a bit as I aged and “expanded”. Where I was once a 30" waist, I now, er um, fortyemofujsojsjsomething" and can’t get it down. SInce I now neither gain nor loose weight, I guess I have settled at my “life weight”. I am no longer the lithe thin young man I once was.
And I just can’t squeeze down a 15-18" aisle anymore!
It can happen to you too!
[8-|]
LIONS are svelte. (NOT this one), but you NEED big Isles.
I put tools on a cart and push it down the isle with me.
Visitors will also come for some lookenpokein.
If you have more than one operator they must pass each other.
You will never regret adequate isles.
Thanks Marlon.
A good idea being able to take the tops off the mountains. I am only going to have a couple of short tunnels so it shouldn’t be a problem for me.
The incline starts where the spline butts up against the foam and makes a 180. From there to where the loco is by the window is about 35’ of spline. From there it starts down again over the fireplace to my “Alberta” table. It is suppose to represent a trip over the Rockies. I am currently working on a prairie grain elevator complex for that inner track on the Alberta bench.
I am finding it hard to work on the actual layout right now as we are in the process of looking for more acres to move to. I don’t want to build mountains only to tear it all apart if my available space changes. Civilization has gotten within a few miles of us and it is time to move on. The layout is quite movable as I designed it to be. That being said ya never know what you are going to end up with as far as space. I am not holding my breath for a room that will fit this layout in its current configuration. A larger train room will make the move more palatable though.
Brent[C):-)]
Very nice !!! You actually have me totally rethinking my soon to be design and where I’m gonna build it. I was going to build it in the garage but I limited to having a wide layout, 14’ long but 5 feet wide. I think there is a room in my house (which is heated unlike the garage) that would work very well. Plus I want to use a helix to run up close to the ceiling then down a long hallway and around my living room and back, all n scale. Then I can do a simple 4x8 Ho layout in the garage.
I started this post a few days ago; I mentioned the layout width - tried to keep it at four feet with aisles on each side to make the reach some two feet. I did add to the width to nearly five feet which made the reach difficult. However, I said nothing about aisle width as galaxy and BroadwayLion did - I hate to admit this but circumstances have dictated that I have one 10 foot aisle that is 13 inches wide. I am able to get up and down this aisle, but it is close (I have a 38" waist). Again, be careful of all dimensions when setting up the layout. There have been an abundance of posts on this subject, but I can confirm have unfortunately been overlooked.
The only way I would get down a 13 inch walkway was if the bench work was at neck level lol