Useful table for beginners. But it leaves out some useful stuff.
Acrylic latex caulking compound, Phenoseal is one brand name, which is supremely useful for sticking down foamboard, cork roadbed, and flex track.
Liquid Nails construction adhesive, useful in benchwork building but harmful to foamboard.
PLZ300, a foam safe construction adhesive.
He mentions the classic cellulose cements (Ambroid and Duco) but leaves them out of the table. I still use them for sticking down paper and gluing wood parts. The benefit is very fast dry time, no clamping required. Strength is adequate to most modeling needs.
The author mentions that you can accidently stick body parts (fingers) together with CA, and suggests keeping a “debonder” handy. He fails to mention that ordinary acetone, which many of us have in the shop, is the debonder.
He mentions good old Walther’s Goo, but fails to mention that it will deform styrene plastic over time, and thus is not a good choice for gluing ballast into plastic freight cars. Silicone bathtub caulk is a much better choice, it never lets go, and is harmless to plastic.
He talks about plastic welder and goes on to recommend using “proper cement for the specific plastic”. Tenax, Testors, and Ambroid never failed to bond any reasonable plastic for me. They won’t stick to that slippery engineering plastic, but they never had trouble with anything else. I have gone on to use MEK, a quart of MEK can be had from the price of one teeny weeny bottle of Tenax. MEK works as good as anything I every bought at the LHS in teeny weeny little bottles.