I’m sure if I spend a ton of money I could get a fantastic digitial camera with like 1000 megapixels and a 500x zoom. The question I have is not “what is the best digitial camera?” but rather “what is the cheapeast digital camera that will take decent close-up model railroad pictures?”, for viewing on a web site or computer.
I currently have a Kodak 3.2 MP with a 3X non-movable-lens zoom of some kind. I’m happy with the pictures it takes, EXCEPT for trying to get things in focus for close-up shots. The pictures are only viewed on the computer or put on a web site.
I rather spend what limited money I have on the layout, not on a camera with more features and functions that I don’t need, but I would like to be able to get some decent close-up shots in focus. Suggestions?
I use a Nikon Coolpix 3200 for all of my model photography. This is an older model which you can probably pickup on Ebay for under $100.00. I use this for all my photos for reviews I do for Model Railroad News, and I’ve never had a complaint about the quality of the pictures.
See my avatar and the photo of my car repair shed. You can pay a lot more for a camera, but decide if you will use it enough to justify the cost of all the bells and whistles.
Just look for one with a macro-feature. I have a $150 Olympus SP-320 that has a great macro setting that focuses down to about 6".
Ironically, the expensive digital SLRs, while far superior in most cases, can only take similar close-ups if they are fitted with special macro lenses.
Don’t know how cheap it is, or if you can find one, but the Canon Powershot A300 served me well for a number of years. No optical zoom, but a good macro function (the ability to take close-ups). This was taken in 2004. The car is an Athearn BB 34’ hopper (You will find an overall shot of it in the photo gallery on my web site).
One hazard I found with super-closeups: you gotta be careful to dust your models! [:D]
The fundamentals are the same for digital and film photography.
The sort of close ups referred to are called “macro photography” by the camera makers and you can generally find a minimum close up distance in the specifications. Of course, the size of the image depends on the focal length as well as the distance.
You could try a camera in the shop, shooting something about the size of the train or building you plan to take photos of.
What you must have is manual control of exposure and a reasonably small minimum aperture (f 16 or f 22) if you want a reasonable depth of field - a depth of focus giving all of the major subjects in sharp focus at the same time.
In general, only more costly cameras have this feature. I use and recommend a Canon EOS 400D with a Tamron 18-250 zoom lens but this would be regarded as costly by anyone other than a professional (who would spend ten times as much easily).
But with care, any camera with reasonably close focussing and manual control of exposure will do.
Your Kodak 3.2 MP should do you just fine,it also works on the light you use and how long you leave the shutter open,also you have a setting on your Camera for fine closeup (Macro) shots it’s Looks like a Flower,click that symbol and now you can zoom in a little better on finer focus,I always use a Tripod, Unless I am doing a real close up and then I just sit it on the track in front of what I am going to shoot,Also I always use the timer function as this eliminates any possibility of finger shake as I push the button, attached is a picture I took of my CN switcher with a 1.2 MP and no flash,I used the timer and slowed the F-stop,I also used a hand held Flourescent light behind the camera.
Pick up a Digital Photo Magazine and try somethings with the camera you already have,it should be just right with a little experimenting.
Look on Ebay for a cannon powershot A510. you should be able to pick one up for $20 bucks used. I don,t think people read the instructions and expect good pictures on auto mode. Heres a close up of eddie. as you can see his eyes are closed.
Kodak C513 5 MP /3X optical /4X digital 500 hi quality pics on a 512 SDram card. (20 min. video) Macro down to 5". Fairly automatic. Some user setable features. (flash off is nice) Lots of bells and whistles for $80.
Does sunsets, goats and donkeys pretty good too.
I would go for a camera with the image stabilisation feature such as a Canon powershot A720IS. If your layout lighting is reasonably bright you will be able to dispense with the tripod and hand hold the Camera. It should be good down to 1/25 sec exposure though on occasion I have managed 1/8 of a sec, though its pretty hit and miss at that level.
[#ditto] What He said… I bought my mother an A710IS (the 720 predecessor) last year and it’s a great little camera. Little more expensive than cheap but the IS is well worth having.
A lot of uniformed people think that there is a great need for extreme macro focusing on cameras. This is true if you want closeups of the extreme details on a model, as has been shown in some of the photos in this thread. But how many such shots would you be taking? I assume most of us shoot more photos of individual models and scenes rather than the extreme macro ones. For these a close focusing ability is much better than macro focusing. Keep in mind the closer you get to a subject, the smaller the depth of focus will be.
And tripods are really cheap assurances of getting better photos. Image stabilization is great, but cannot replace using a tripod. Small table top tripods can often be used. There is no “hit or miss” when using a tripod, period.
Check out my website on model photography in my signature for more info.
As Bob has already indicated in the previous post (and as both of us have pointed out countless times previously), cameras simply with a macro focusing ability are a poor choice for close-up model railroad/layout photography. Other than for taking side-on “builder’s photos” of your locos and rolling stock, the performance of macros is disappointing and consistantly results in an obvious lack of depth-of-field, conveying that the image is simply of a model. In fact, the closer-in the subject is to the camera, the less depth-of-field one will have. Quality prototype photos, unless exposed to purposely limit depth-of-field, will show objects both near and far from the camera, as well as the subject, in sharp focus. Macro shots of models typically show only the subject in focus and the remainder of the scene looking “soft”.
Far more important in model photography is having a controllable aperture to the camera lens. Many medium priced SLR digital cameras today can shoot at F/28, or better (my Pentax DL-ist goes to f/37) and can offer a great depth-of-field, one impossible with a simple macro arrangement.
In the image below, the sharply focused depth-of-field ranges from about 6 inches from the camera’s lens to over 2 feet. A macro couldn’t hope to accomplish a total of more than perhaps 4 to 6-inches under the same circumstances. (click to enlarge)
Excellent information in this thread, which should help me make a decision on my camera choice, but beyond that, how to take quality images.
Bob B. - I’ve been on your photo tutorial several times and each time come away with something that I can use. Several years ago (before digital cameras) I took a photography course at our local arts center. I expected to learn how to take quality images, but instead got a 6 week lesson on film processing and darkroom technology. It was useful, but not what I really wanted. I appreciate your tutorial, especially learning about composition.
CNJ831 - I always admire your images. The subtle fall colors and how they complement your excellent structure modeling is an inspiration. I’m modeling the mid-40’s to mid-50’s and hope I can achieve that look when I get to the scenery phase.
Thanks for your contribution to the hobby and to my education!
Some great information and pictures - thanks to all. I’m taking notes from all the postings in hopes of getting a better camera soon. Thanks again. Jim
I agree tripods should be the first aid you should call for in model photography, but there are many situations were a tripod is not usable particularly if you like to take photos at ground level rather than from the top of a 120 ft building which can be the effect if you use a tripod.
For most of my photography I set the image stabilisation on, the camera to aperture priority f8 for depth of field, ISO to 200 (400) in dark corners and I find most of my shots have a shutter time between 1/20 and 1/60 of a sec. I seldom have to reject photos because of camera shake. I vary rarely use macro mode indeed really only when I am doing a photo stack to run through a program such as as Helicon or CombineZM.
