For those interested in a different, simpler, (and better, in my opinion) method of laying track, try the following method. I use Butyl Sealing Tape, which is used in sealing doors and windows in mobile homes and campers, and for sealing joints in steel buildings. This stuff is pretty resilient, it absorbs sound and vibration to a certain extent. This roll shown below is the second one I’ve use on the layout so far:
This wasn’t a new roll when I took the picture. Anyway, the first step is to lay out the track center lines using conventional methods.
Now, roll off a piece of the tape, in this case, to the end of the track.
Now, remove the wax paper backing strip, and lay the tape alongside your center line. Once it is properly positioned, press gently to adhere it. It’s reasonably forgiving, you can fairly easily pull it up for repositioning.
Now, repeat for the width of your track. This tape I used is about 3/8" wide, so I used 4 strips for HO scale. Use 2 for N
Nice tip. Looks like a similar material to what they use to secure truck covers to pick ups. From your great pictures, looks like you also put a piece under your ground throws (at a later point)?
You can buy “topper tape” which is the same idea, a dense foam used to seal pick up truck toppers onto the bed, its wider so you don’t need all the multiple runs.
I’m familiar with the “topper tape”, but it’s only sticky on one side, the other side barely has any tackiness to it. Also, since it’s foam, it will have some “sponginess” to it, this stuff is more like Play-Doh (no, actually, more like the “poster hanging adhesive”, which is a bit more resilient), that will practically NEVER dry out. Remember, it’s designed for sealing EXTERIOR windows and doors, so even very long term exposure to weather and temperature extremes will not degrade the material for ages. I have noticed absolutely NO effects from heat, cold, humidity, water exposure, submersion, electrical shock, or even heat from a soldering iron (brief exposure).
This stuff is available in other widths and thicknesses, my local mobile home part dealer has the 3/4" and 1-1/2" available in about a 1/8" thickness. Like I said, mine was free, so I used what I had. If I had to buy it, I would have gotten the 1-1/2" stuff.
I’ve removed doors and windows from 40-50+ year old mobile homes, and, although the edges of the tape show some deterioration (outer 1/16" or so), the rest is just like the day the home was built.
I’ve used this stuff before to secure track. I think there is one significant drawback. Unlike glue, the track can’t be finessed once it has been laid down… the stuff is exceptionally permanent! I tried to lift some flex track once and ended up with two rails without all the ties!
Brad, My goodness, what kind of a RAILROAD are you running there? Most of the elements you mention are familiar to me and railroading, but when you mention “SUBMERSION” I have to ask "what have you got there ?? Is this a tunnel line under a river or what ?? Maybe a new type of submarine commuter service ?? I sure would like to know and I bet others would too. PLease fill us in. Maybe we are missing out on a part of the hobby that we haven’t encountered yet.
Living the Western Pacific dream in the Great White North.
Uhh, submersion, the next closest thing to a little too much white glue during scenicking? Actually, that was encountered on an old mobile home, not MRR related. I was using that as an example as a testament on the durability of this stuff.
Well, I went looking for the stuff you describe, thinking that I’d give it a shot. Couldn’t find it though. But I did find this, which is similar. I’ll just give links so I don’t kill the dialup guys. The pics are pretty good sized. Also, all of the product on the layout has been secured with a thin layer of clear latex caulk, so this is actually ready for rail to be laid. It’s kind of sticky out of the package, but I feel better with it stuck down good, ya know?
It comes in a roll like this. The tool is a wall papering tool available at the same home depot. It’s handy for making sure everything is level and for making ramps (more on that later).
And it’s wide, so I cut it in half lengthwise and it works pretty well. With ballast it should look great! (I just set an old piece of Atlas code 80 on there for the shot)
Well PC it also comes in gray and we call it dum dum when using it to seal car bodies, air conditioners, and the like. Let us know if it works alright through the summer. You should be able to push your ballast right into the stuff and have it stay. J.R.
I visited the AMI booth at St Louis in 2001 and got a demo of their material; I was impressed so when I returned home I went by my local and inquired about the product - strickly curiosity. My local said that he no longer STOCKED it because it really did not sell well and some who had used it liked it but there appeared to be some who had experienced difficulties if modifications or repairs were required to the track layout. He did not elaborate.
I know I may be overlooking the greatest thing to come down the pike since Preparation H® and I am going to follow this thread but as it stands right now I think I will continue with my ply-H’cal-cork technique when I begin my new layout in the future.
