Cleaning the track I found a problem everyone should know!!!

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I’m selling off my N scale stuff. Before selling it I test it to make sure it works as advertised.

I set up a simple oval to test several DC and DCC Locos I’m selling.

The DC locos worked perfectly. So they went up for bid.

When I tested the DCC loco it had problems maintaining continuity with the Base Station. So I thought since the track hasn’t been used in a while it needed cleaning. I grabbed a rag and my bottle of finger nail polish remover and went around the track. It didn’t seem to do the trick so I cleaned it a second time.

Remember this is a temporary layout 2-1/2’ BY 3’ on a portable table we use for party’s so it’s not much.

The engine kept having headlight problems (Blinking) in two areas, just after coming out of turns onto the straight sections.

I guessed it was dirty track so I cleaned it two separate times but it didn’t make any difference.

Finally I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and scraped the rail surface.

To my astonishment the loco ran smooth without any headlight flicker.

So I went around the entire oval and now it runs perfectly.

I know keeping the track clean is key to the operation of your trans but I didn’t know that it took scraping the rail to get it to accept the signal. I guess I’ll use some 400 grit sand paper on the HO layout that I’m building to ensure that the engines get the DCC signals.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks for your help.

Bill

2

Is it possible that you used brass track? The oxide that forms on brass does not conduct electricity. Or maybe something came in contact with the track at those points. I would not use any type of sandpaper on your new HO layout…you’ll be asking for trouble. NS track never needs to be scraped unless you let something dry on it like white glue, matt medium etc.

3

Is your fingernail cleaner fresh? Is it really laquer thinner or a "substitute? Real automotive laquer thinner should have taken off anything that may have been on the rails.

I don’t use sandpaper under any circumstance. I would rather scrape it with a flat blade of some sort but it shouldn’t be necessary IMO.

4

I think you run the risk of permanently damaging your track if you scrape it. Eventually you will probably leave deep groves where you can clean and then you will have even worse problems. This is how I’ve been told anyways. If it’s true someone else can fill in. I never scrape my track anyways.

Magnus

5

Since building my layout recently I use a product called goof off or is it goo gone?

I apply it with a cotton swab…a clean unused one…not one that was used in your ears [#oops] earwax does not help with electrical conductivity or traction[D)]

I let it sit for a moment on the rails and use another clean cotton swab to wipe it off of the rails.

After being into N scale for over 20 years ,being into live steam for almost 20 years and getting back into HO scale 3 years ago I have come to a decision about using abrasives on rails…DON`T[soapbox]

I have found that after using items such as the Infamous Walthers “Bright Boy” I have felt not so bright using them[D)]

Microscopic scratches have been found in the rails which can cause buildup of dirt, earwax, and other crap[banghead]

Just adding my —>[2c]

6

Bill,

I know a few others on the forum feel differently about this topic but I would encourage you to avoid ANY sort of abrasives for “cleaning” track as much as possible.

Why? Bottom line: Abrasivies (e.g. sandpaper) remove material. They also create smalll “scratches” on the surface of smooth rail, which makes your track more vulnerable to collecting dirt; thereby requiring you to clean it more often.

I would keep the surface of your track rail smooth and shiny by using a good degreaser; one that will remove the dirt build up but won’t harm the plastic ties that hold and secure the rail. One of the cheapest on the market (less than $1 a bottle) is rubbing alcohol.

Although abrasives may be a quicker and easier method for removing stubborn dirt on track, I don’t think they are worth the tradeoffs for the reason given above.

My [2c]…

Tom

7

This seems to be a continuing issue for many. I have my share of dirty track problems - especially since I don’t run trains that often. What I use is STP Fuel injector fluid. Wipe on and wipe off with another pad. Use two cleaning box cars with the masonite pad and 2 roofing nails clued to the pad.

Alan

8

Use Rail Zip, safe for plastics, covers the rails, helps wipe out oxiding. If I have an old piece of track, I’ll brightboy it.

The other issue is to look at the engine wheels, look for any grit rings on the wheels. A paper towel and alcohol on it, laid over a piece of track, run one end of the engine powered over it, hold it and let it runmble over the paper towel, cleaning the wheels, turn the engine around and do the same. freight cars can be just rolled over it. pesky dirt will need scraping off carefully.

I have had my share of thick dirt on club cars, and it is also a derailing hazard.

9

I’ve never used anything harsher than 70% rubbing alcohol dragged around the layout with a masonite pad mounted under a boxcar. I clean the track about every other month, but typically just keeping trains running does the trick.

Sounds to me like you were using crappy old track, or the engine wheels were also dirty.

Lee

10

Folks:

Sometimes used track has a heavy oxide buildup, sometimes new track is slightly rough. Scraping can remove those oxides, but you run the risk of scarring the track. A better way is to use very very fine sandpaper on a sanding block. 600 grit is about right.

Oxide also forms on NS track, and it most certainly does not promote good conduction. My old oxidized NS sparked and stuttered badly before I cleaned it. In fact, I tend to question the brass track → bad oxide, NS → good oxide thing. I suspect that the real problem is that brass is softer, easier to damage, and embeds dirt more readily.

Now, any smooth metal surface looks more like the Badlands under high magnification. And any abrasive is really a collection of tiny edged tools that carves overlapping grooves in a material. This goes for anything abrasive. Bright Boys, sandpaper, Flitz metal polish, anything. The secret is to keep these grooves small enough so that dirt will not hold on to them.

In practice, I have found that a variation of the Gleam method, used on my brass, steel, and NS track, helps it start out right and stay clean. I first sand it with 600 grit emery paper on a wood block, as instructed, to remove old oxides and surface irregularities. Then I take a stainless steel fender washer or butter knife and burnish the railhead well to smooth any scratches. Then the surface is wiped clean with an alcohol-damp paper towel, and dried. After this, I don’t touch the track with any abrasive coarser than 1200 grit crocus cloth. Crocus cloth leaves a very shiny finish, and the abrasive is rouge, about as fine as the silica or whatever found in metal polishes. If I do need to use 600 grit on a stubborn oily dirt blob (rare, usually occurs after running in a new loco), I reburnish the sanded area.

I have found that , as many have said, this prevents dirt from building up quickly. Every few days, I put a masonite slider car on the rails and tow it at breakneck speed for a while

11

I’ve never heard of using finger nail polish remover for a track cleaner… If you don’t have access to a real track cleaning fluid try something like 90% alcohol. That is a great cleaner but it leaves the track too dry and will cause the wheels to arc. As the others have said scraping the rails certainly works, but the more scared the surface of the rails becomes the more frequently one will have to scrape them again.

12

I think many of the answers here are misguided. None of the products mentioned will remove any oxide from anything. Dirt and grease or oil yes but not oxides. That takes a polish designed to remove tarnish (oxides). I also disagree on the use of a birght boy. I’ve been using one in HO for nearly forty years with no problems but then I don’t bear down on it either. If you use one properly (or my method) you move it with the rails not across and any scratchs are theoretical in their influence. I would also suggest you check the messages regarding the “Gleam” method of track cleaning as I believe that is the asnwer for most people.

13

Pure acetone, or naptha might be better, than nail polish remover. Nail polish remover contains oils, and glycerin, and some other stuff. Read the ingredients.

14

I agree with the obove post about NOT sanding the tops of the rails. Eventually grit and grime will build up in the grooves left from sandpaper. You will definatly have worst problems.

Mike

15

Old reliable method we use before each operating session: a lint - free rag with 70% rubbing alcohol from your discount pharmacy. The gunk goes on the rag and the alcohol evaporates clean with no residue. A little work pays big dividends in trouble free operation. P.S.: Don’t forget to clean your wheels, occasionally, too! jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA

16

I have a garage layout here in the Valley of Northern California and ‘dust’ per-se is not nearly as big a problem as POLLEN! There’s always something wafting around the air around here except during rain (which we haven’t seen in a long, LONG time, LOL!). Unfortunately, using a Wet cleaner on my rails only gunks them up even further, so I have to use a dry cleaner, which occasionally calls for a light abrasive. I have one of the Micromark track cleaners on a stick, which comes in extremely handy, since a lot of my track is in cuts or not-easy-to-reach mountains. When I use it, I never ‘bear down’ on it, just run it lightly over the rails. I also have a motorized Walthers track cleaning car with the spinning ‘brushes’ on it, to which I attach dry, non-abrasive pads. Keeps the track pretty clean. I also have electrical feeders going into each section of track.

But the best track cleaner I’ve found is just running trains.

Tom

17

I find its still hard to beat 91% alcohol,a rag and a bright boy as needed for cleaning track and I learn years ago one doesn’t need to clean track every time he/she decides to run a train…

I think to many modelers worry about cleaning track way more then they really should.

18

I agree with HOBO. I think the remover left an insulating coating on the rails. Scraping removed it.

Jim

19

Alcohol and then a cheap pencil eraser. The flat ones that are pink or blue. Non abrasive and takes a lot off that the alcohol didnt get. Try it with a pecil eraser on the end of a pencil and you will see.

20

Next time try a polishing compound such as Flitz or I use, Mothers Wheel Cleaner (auto stores). Best track cleaning solution (the polish) I’ve ever found.