Cliff Diving. Or how I've updated a locomotive - new trucks mounted

So I had my first wreck - I purchased a brand new (to me) Atlas RSC-2, in the proper livery and for a decent price, used off the web. Used, in that it didn’t have the real packing, but the model was, upon receipt, brand spanking new.

I disconnect the DCC, and connect the DC controller, and run it around the layout 10, 12, 15 times. While I have the DC connected, I pull out other locos I normally don’t run, and give them a whirl, just for kicks (I immediatley missed my walk around throttle).

I put the new RSC-2 back on, and run it around one more time, setting up for a camera shot.Too late, I realize that the front truck either didn’t get put on the tracks straight, or it jumped someplace; it was far enough out of whack that after it crossed my bridge, it hit a turnout and the whole thing rolled the “wrong” direction.

48 inches to hard concrete.

The result?

Disapionted, I picked up the pieces,and walked away.

So now Here’s another opportunity to rehab a loco, and build my skills.

I’ve figured out that Kadee #33’s should work, and I’ve got a sound DCC recorder, the DSD-AT100LC ALCO plus a small oval speaker picked out (thanks to Norm at Tony’s).

I’m thinking new handrails, and I’ll need directional lighting, as the light on this one was in the center.

So my question for this lot - Any thing else I need to look out for? Resistors on X, blah, blah, blah? Where do you get nice handrails for locos like this, and are they worth it, or should I just repair the plastic?

As always, thanks in advance.

Atleast it didn’t say RUTLAND.

It looks like your walkways still are usable, so perhaps getting the appropriate sized wire and bending your own railings is an option?

I’m sure Walthers has detail parts available if you look as well.

I’m sorry to see that happened. I did a recent post on something similar that happened to me so now I can offer my sympathies to you. Hopefully you can get it back in shape, those things are sturdier than they look sometimes.

Ouch!! Atlas has the handrail set in black part no. 9707208 for $2.50. It’s not worth the trouble of bending wire for 2.50. They might have it in green if you call them.

Jim

Send it back and tell him that’s how it arrived![:-^]

Seriously…I bet if you set it aside till your not so upset about it, you’ll find it’s not really that bad. (just looks it!) Everything seems to have come apart at it’s factory attachment points. It’s not like the shell or cab or frame cracked in half. I’ve had a couple divers that looked that bad, but were pretty EZ to fix.

Does it still run OK? I think that would be the biggest factor in whether or not it was worth fixing.[2c]

I’ve dropped a couple of those Atlas units over the years, they will usually snap right back together and as dieselsmake said, you can order a new handrail set directly from Atlas. If any of the other parts are broken or missing you should be able to find them in the ATlas parts list and order them as well. I think Atlas/Kato designed those things to explode to absorb the impact!

Thanks guys - but I think you’ve mistaken this a bit.

I’m not crying that it flopped, this is an opportunity for me to update this model to DCC, decent couplers, etc.

I haven’t done this before, so I’m looking for things that I may not be aware of.

I appreciate the heads up on the Atlas handrails, I’ll look into that. I use Walther’s web site a lot, but still learning how to search correctly.

Are there things I should do, like replace horns or other details while I have it apart? I’d like to avoid a major paint job, if at all possible.

Oh, and the model still runs - you’re right, Atlast makes them tough as nails!

For details, CV 3901 was a RS3. Atlas has the 4 wheel trucks that will drop right in. The old worm and worm cover will fit on the new trucks. 3901 also had a steam generator. Walthers might have those. Atlas is great to deal with for parts, they’ll promptly mail your order. Have fun!

Jim

Detail Associates & Details West (both Walthers) have RS steam generator kits.

Oh my god you’re making my head spin! 3901 was a RS-3 - the CV never had any RSC-2s.

I figured the model companies had done things correctly on thier end - well now I know to double check.

Thanks for the tips!

Your railroad simply leased one from another road.

Since you bought it used, someone may have swapped the original 4 wheel trucks for 6 wheel. Plastic locos usually “look like” the prototype, [close enough?] Expensive brass will usually look exact. Anyway, it’s fun adding details to an engine to make it look more prototypical.

Jim

You may call it your floor model.

You remind me of an experience I had with a brass locomotive. Thereafter, I will not operate on tracks not protected from such accidents. My entire layout has solid barriers to prevent derailed trains from “cliff diving”.

As for the engine, Alco built both 6 axle and 4 axle road switchers with common looking carbodies. It can be rewarding to rebuild a damaged engine.

Are these the 4 wheel trucks you mention? This is from the China RS-1 model. Thanks

One of my GP9s was wrecked, but now I can’t even tell which one it was that got wrecked.

http://cs.trains.com/forums/1334611/ShowPost.aspx

Just try to get the shell together as best as you can. The handrails can be added (maybe even repaired with Loctite palstics super glue[holds some of my handrail together]) later. Repairing the rails is easier when they are all lined up to the shell.

Thanks for the tips.

I’ve started with the insides - first up was adding DCC and sound.

Here’s a link to my page, and one for a short quicktime (4mb) video of the results so far.

In some ways I’m happy it fell; I need to learn how to do this, so it’s been great to actually have a model I don’t mind working on.

Scarpia

The trucks you want are for the RS3/ RS11/ C424/425. The Atlas part no. is 9845300. The front and rear trucks are the same. These have a cup mount on the truck whereas the RS1 truck has a pin mount.

Jim

great job. Looks like you’ll have fun w/ that locomotive.

I sincerely thank you.

Now I need to add lights. Any suggestions from the experts out there what to order?

I presume I’ll need two - a front and read light, plus resistors. From what I’ve been reading, a golden white is preferred for headlights - would these work? Would this be the right resistor?

Thanks in advance.