Well folks this feels a little pretentious on my part offering a clinic on something in the company of so many accomplished modellers, but I have been working hard on this kit the last few days and want to share the results. Further more, this is the first time I have attempted a hydrocal kit, so I am not really qualified as an expert to present this, so here goes anyway as it is a chance to give something back to the forum…
Some may remember that I asked a few days ago about tips on building these kits. There was not very much response, so I presume that most of you, like me, had not had this experience. All I can say is having tackled this type of kit is that it has been a very satisfying experience.
The kit in question is a hydrocal kit made by DownTown Deco www.downtowndeco.com This kit is no longer available and was an e-bay bargain for me a week or two back. The detail is excellent and the instructions are really very well done. My results are entirely due to the excellent instructions.
The first thing to do is to clean up the castings to ensure that the windows will fit. The windows are just test fit at this time, not glued into place.
Then with some sanding for a good fit, the assembly of the structure sections can be done. I used yellow wood glue, though I am sure other glues would work. This is a large structure (3 feet long) so I kept some parts separate. I also re-inforced the joints with some scrap styrene.
The first painting step was to spray with a white flat primer from a can and let it dry. No picture of this as the is no obvious difference from the unfinished casting. The primer makes the hydrocal less absorbent and helps with the future paint. I had not let my castings set long enough and the glue was not completely cured. As a result
Simon, your timing is incredible! I just got one of that very kit (huge, aren’t they?), and have been reluctant to start it. Reluctance gone! Now I just have to clear enough space on my workbench… [:(]
It really is a bit intimidating. I had it sitting by my desk for a week and since I got so little response to the post for advice I was reluctant to get going. I think the key here is patience. Don’t try to ru***he steps and let things dry well between steps. My failure to let the glue harden for 24 hours very nearly cost me one of the castings!
Yes it is Raw Umber, I re-read the thing so many times to correct my typing errors, I think I am now crosseyed! Not being a very good typist and a worse speller are not particularly good skills to have in this electronic world.
You should be very proud of both accomplishments, I would think; tackling the kit with so little feedback, and then having the courage to demonstrate your achievement pictorially.
Congratulations! That should give you great satisfaction when you remember to cast your eyes on it during operating sessions.
Thanks Guys. It is big 36" long and originally 2" deep. I had to cut it down to 1 1/2" for track clearance. I found that a very fine tooth saw, in my case one used for cutting plastic pipe, worked really well for smooth accurate cuts of the hydrocal casting.
Well Simon. You did a great job for a beginner. You found the secret to coloring Hydrocal castings is to seal it. If you work with stains on raw plaster, they will be absorbed and there is no way to undo any mistakes. If it too dark, too bad. By sealing the plaster you are in control. If you use water based paints they can be washed off and done over. I learned this the hard way.
