I am starting to work on a 4x8 HO scale layout with my dad. We just finished nice benchwork for it and there is a layer of 2 inch blue foam on the top for scenery. I need help with a few things though. I am totally useless at planning layouts! I want to model something involving New Haven. Definitely freelanced, seeing as I’d be running a GP30 and an 0-8-0 switcher. Could anybody help me with this? Once I have a plan too, what should I do for track? I have a bunch of sectional code 100 Atlas track, a bit of code 83 and some snap switches, and I think five pieces of code 83 flex track. I also have foam roadbed that is in two pieces, like before you put it together for laying it. I’m confused which method of trackwork I should go for, and how to go about doing it. Any help that can be given would be much appreciated, I’d love to get right into the hobby as soon as possible!
Hi Justin, Welcome to the Trains.com/forums. Seeing as how you have both code 83 and code 100 HO sectional track , you must join them with “Transition Joiners” so that the top will be smooth and level. You can buy a couple of packages of Transition Joiners at any model train hobby shop. I personally, do not use 2" foam, but many modelers do, so it must be cut and shaped for gullies and hills. Type in “Atlas HO Track Plans” on the Internet, to plan your layout. I assume that the 4’x8’ will either be in the middle of the room for an Island type of layout, or as a “peninsula” (with the 4ft. end against one wall). The maximum access reach is about 28", so you must not place the 8 ft section against a wall. Are your “turnouts” electrically controlled ? Since you have a “switcher loco”, you will want a small “Yard” or spurs, and a “run around track of train length< to allow a “high priority train to pass a slower train. You can use a kitchen knife with a serrated blade to cut gullies, and glue on scraps of the foam, covered with plastic cloth, with Sculptmod plaster then applied to form smooth ravines and hills. With sectional track, you are limited as to the shape of curves, You fill in gaps with track cut from the “Flex track”. It is best to get a “track cutter” type of pliers from the hobby shop, to cut the Flex track” You then use a fine file to smooth the jagged edges, before applying the rail joiners. A Dremel Tool” with a fine “collet” will hold a fine nail, that you should use to drill, holes in the “ties”, to nail them down temporarily. Do not glue the ties to the foam, until you are sure of the track design that best suits you. I use the cork roadbed beneath the ties. The cork can be shaped to curves. I would tack it down to the foam first, and then nail the ties to the cork and foam. Plan the layout so that you can place structures, roads, and trees that do not bump into the railroad loco or rolling stock,(especially, on curves). Test the layout with full length trains, before you nai
There have probably been more track plans published for the ubiquitous 4x8 than all other sizes of layout combined. There shouldn’t really be too much of a need to design yet another one. I would recommend you start with one of the many track plan books, or even search the layout database here on trains.com for 4x8. Start looking at them and analyzing what you like and dislike about them.
Unfortunately I know nothing about the New Haven other than some of its paint schemes and some of their more unusual Diesel/Electric combo locos.
Well first of all Atlas Snap switches are extremely tight. Unless you are only planning on using very short locos and cars I would not recommend using them.
I don’t know what your definition of “a bunch of” is, but I would not let 5 pieces of flex track sway my decision. Make your decision on something other than what you have. Code 83 looks better. I find younger people have an easier time working with code 100. In the Atlas catalog there are more types of code 83 than code 100, however most of the more interesting pieces are the larger curves which would not do much good on a 4x8 space. Personally I’ve found code 100 to be more durable on my modular sections than the code 83. Of co
A word of caution. What ever the plan, don’t make the curves too tight. What ever you run now, if you decide you like model railroading, you will want larger engines and passanger cars and then you will wish you had 22" or 24" curves. You can ask me how I know.
Several years ago Kalmbach published a book, written by Lou Sassi. It was a step by step guide to building a 4 x 8 HO layout. I checked the Kalmbach store but it wasn’t listed. Maybe its out of print. It covered track laying, scenery, kitbashing structures. It featured a good track plan with expansion possibilities. Book title is: A Realistic HO Layout for Beginners, by Lou Sassi. The isbn #89024-214-3, originally published in 1998. eBay, Half.com or Amazon would be a good place to look for a copy.
I have two books with Atlas layouts in them and I haven’t really been impressed with any of them. I want to learn how to design my own layout actually, so I’ve began to read Space Mouse’s guide. While looking at his site, however, I found this very interesting plan:
This layout has pretty much everything I’d want in a layout on it. A nice yard, an oval of track to run around, and industries. However, I don’t know what kind of turnouts, radii, ect. the drawer has used. Also, how would I get from the plan to putting roadbed down on the board? I’ve never understood how to do that well.
That is indeed a very interesting plan. My only suggestion would be to make the runarounds longer, so that they will accommodate 10-12 car length trains. As shown on the plan, the two runarounds will only hold a maximum of 2-3 cars. The following adapted German Marklin plan may be a bit to fussy for a 4’x8’ railroad.Click on photo to enlarge it. Then, move cursor to upper left corner and click on “Zoom in”. or "View Album’ (to see other views of other plans and my 24’x24’ layout.) Bob Hahn
You can get lots and lots or ideas about modeling New Haven from MR staffer David Popp’s Naugatuck Valley RR. He models N, but hopefully you can “translate” some of his ideas to HO.
My “UNOFFICIAL” tour of the model railroad
I have been so fascinated by David Popp’s layout in April 06 MR that I just had to explore it more. As it turns out, one can do just that by “re-purposing” Popp’s Step-by-Step column. I did just that and assembled this “tour”.
SYSTEM MAP showing prototype area with modeled lines Feb05 p.40
revised track plan Model Railroader December 90 p.51
For orientation, I am following the map directions along the modeled line, and listing scenes from “north” to “south”, Hancock Bridge- Waterbury- Prospect Hill- Beacon. With the exception of
I would respectfully suggest that you read the following (including stuff linked to) before committing to building the deBois and Punxxy (or however it was spelled) : http://www.layoutvision.com/id47.html
So which Altas books do you have. I learned a ton about designing my own layouts by memorizing the Altas Custom-Line Layouts for HO Scale Railroads. I still keep a copy of it on my desk within easy reach. The chapter 9 “Designing Your Own Track Plan” with all the templates and stuff has been invaluable through the years.
Leighant - Incredible tour through David Popp’s layout. I’ve only gotten MRR for two years, unfortunately, but I have enjoyed reading the articles on his layout. It definitely inspires me to build my New Haven railroad.
Texas Zephyr - I have the first and second layout books by Atlas, which would be layouts 1-24, I believe. They just seem a bit “cheesy” to me.
Stein - Unfortunately, I am restricted to 4x8. Those plans were interesting, though the only one to really catch my eye was the shortline.
Maybe somebody could offer me help in designing a layout? That way, I might be able to solve my own problem or show you guys kind of what I would like to see from my layout.
