Gary, my rerailers were purchased way after 1970. In fact, the center part is smooth, no faux planks etched into the plastic as is indicated in the pics in a previous response. And, I would not describe my issue as snagging. To me snagging implies tearing up the pad. The pad was not torn up on my layout.
Ain’t that the truth. I bought mine about 5 years or so ago for $110, and I thought that was expensive. Now, the sale price at MB Klein is $159.99, and the regular price is $189.95.
That pricing is outrageous in my opinion, and I attribute a lot of the price increase to all of the hype on trains forums, including this one. The CMX cleaning car is touted as the end all to track cleaning, So the manufacturer cashes in on it.
In my experience, the CMX cleaning car is OK, but I can do the same or better with an alcohol soaked white cloth and my finger tip. And, if there is black gunk on the rails, the CMX cleaning car runs right over it without removing it. Incidentally, I use denatured alcohol, both in the CMX cleaning car and by hand (finger).
Dunno, if you don’t already have one, save your money. I just don’t think that the CMX cleaning car is worth the money, certainly not $160 to $190. No way.
Rich
Actually, Rich, I think outrageous can descrive the prices of more than just the CMX car.
Of course. But, since the CMX cleaning car is the subject of this thread, I cannot help but notice and comment on the increasing price of the car over the last few years. And, it’s not only the absolute price of the car, but it’s also the relative value of what you get for your money.
Since you can pour a little alcohol or solvent on a rag and wipe down the rails with your finger, by rubbing the damp cloth over the rail, is it really worth as much as $190 to run a tank car over the rails instead?
Rich
Problem is that rubbing with your finger and a damp cloth is tedious when there is something like 1800’ of track to clean. Our club runs two of the CMX tankers (bought at swap mets over the year, at highly discounted prices) using either 70% or 91% drugstore alcohol.
We have found that at grade crossings on the railroad, and on Atlas 83 and 100 rerailers in staging, that the CMX car doesn’t do much of a job of cleaning because the planks and paving and so on raise the cleaning pad enough that there isn’t much contact. Haven’t had a snagging problem. We clean those by hand.
Another great tool is one a member concocted. He sticks the round synthetic felt chair pad gizmos to a screw and loosely bolts that through a paint mixing stick. Dampen that with alcohol and it has enough leverage and reach to do a good job in truss bridges, stub tracks, and other hard to reach spots. Ken Patterson uses cheap Harbor Freight socket wrench arms to make the same kind of tool.
We discontinued mineral spirits and lacquer thinner as cleaning fluids after two of our brighter bulbs got into a discussion, stopped their CMX trains with the valves open, and melted some ties. A focused home layout owner would never ever have that problem.
With the combination of CMX tanks, roller cars, and cleaning sticks, three people can cover our 30x60 railroad in an hour or so.
Very early on with my current and last layout I noticed the problem keeping the rails clean in my crossings so I sanded them down to about 1/64” below the rails. That allows for cleaning cars to ungunk those rails too.
The slightly lower surface isn’t noticeable and I’ve never had a problem with the road surface after running my CMX for years but then again I’ve never used a thinner or solvent based type cleaner in my CMX to clean the rails.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I just had to bump back Bearman’s thread, as I didn’t feel the need to start a new one.
In this thread, I languished on buying a CMX car, well today I made a compromise.
I was sooooo close, page in front me, hand on mouse, ready to buy, and I stopped. I just couldn’t see spending the money on this, when I could buy a new loco, with sound, for the same price.
This is what I do have:
All the working parts are there. I actually have a couple of these, but one is missing a couple of things.
What I did do, is spend $9 for a roll of the pad that goes on the CMX car, and it works great!
Previously, I used a piece of t shirt, or just a piece of rag.
I now have a great track cleaning car.
Thanks for looking,
Mike.
You can build a similar car using the CMX components. See: https://tonystrains.com/product/cmx-skid-pad-assembly-kit-ho-scale
Of course you don’t have the dripping fluid option, but you can always apply some to the pad on the above as necessary.
You can go the “Dust Monkey” route, too…
https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/TT4571
Also available in N scale.
Maybe not quite as effective as the CMX but possibly an option for those hard to reach areas.
Cheers, Ed
My little “sugar” car works great with the CMX pad. I have about 12’ of hidden track, so the good ole’ armstrong cleaner can’t get everywhere.
Mike.
Anyone have an issue with the CMX derailing on Kato N-Scale double crossovers? Mine derails everytime. Not sure what the issue is
Thanka in advance, Bill
Welcome Bill,
I’m not in N scale, but something that relates to all scales, watch very closely as the flanges of the car make their way through the turnouts, and see if you can spot what is going wrong.
Try running the car through the crossovers as slow as you can while doing this.
I’m sure you will be able to see what is hanging up, and where.
Mike.
Mike, to each his own. Yeah, the CMX car is on the pricey side, but for me it is worth it. If your set up works…then great!