I just read the Make Your Own Cast-resin Coal Loads in the April MR. I don’t have the expertise to do such work; accordingly I recently made a hopper coal load as I usually do as follows. I tightly stuff paper in the hopper to somewhere near the top of the hopper; then I sprinkle in gravel that somewhat resembles coal; I glue that with a watered down white glue and when dry I paint the gravel black. It looks like coal to me and doesn’t require a long time to do. Maybe I am not a real model railroader, but I do enjoy the hobby.
After reading the article, I suspect that it would be almost as fast, and cetainly less expensive to make each individual load from shaped foam instead of doing the casting.
That said, I think the value in the article was in giving those of us, who hath never made a pattern, mold or resin casting, an opportunity to start with a simple project, and then explore other uses for the new-found technology.
Jim
To make easily removable loads I use extruded foam (pink/blue insulation).
First I cut a strip that is the width of the interrior of the car, then cut it to length.
Second, I shape the top of the load to look as I want, one or two piles and cut depth to have the load slightly lower than the sides, as loads settle as they travel.
Third, I cut out a chunk in the center of the top, insert a steel washer, attach with latex caulk, recheck load shape. I have an extendable magnetic pick-up tool available at auto parts dealers to lift the load out. (If you get a strong one, wrap the end of the magnet in cloth to protect the load.)
Fourth, take a piece of Saran Wrap and generously cover the car, then push the wrap into the car with the foam block.
Fifth, paint the top of the load with a thick coat of black paint. I use full strength latex paint. (Use a color close to your load color, if you are doing something other than coal.)
Sixth, sprinkle on material. I have Life Like coal and black craft sand for coal loads.
When the paint is dry, remove the load and the wrap. Check to make sure the load slips in and out easily.
They fit good, look good and don’t cost much, especially if you can use scrap foam.
Have fun,
Richard
I used 1/4 plywood cut to fit in then spooned in egg size coal and used the white glue watered down with alcohol
Really fast and looks good as you can vary the coal load shape
Only problem is if you want to take it out ( why I don’t know) the glue will tend to hold it in
Jim,
I have to agree with you on all points.
Interesting article on how to cast molds, but a lot easier to shape foam and glue “coal” to it.
Rich
I used the cut to fit and shaped extruded foam with black craft sand method,
Shaping the foam allows for some disimilar looking loads as not all are perfect shapes, except maybe when they leave the coal loader. Each load may shift in transit on its own and not be alike to the others.
I don’t really relish the idea of making casting molds and pouring resin and such.
Just the way it works in my world.
[8-|]
I use Accurail coal loads. They’re cheap enough at a little over $1.00 each and they are easily removed for loads-in, empties-out operation. They have a variety of sizes and will fit other brands of hoppers as well. Yes, they tend to all look the same but I find that on a long string of hoppers rolling by it really isn’t all that noticeable.
The Accurail coal loads are nice, but I would think that the longer the string of hoppers, the more noticeable the similarity would be.
Rich
My coal loads don’t need to be removable so I’ve used this method.
Start with this:
Add desired weight and trim styrene to fit about 1/8" below top of car:
Flood with adhesive of choice :
And add coal load:
Takes about 10 minutes per car and I like the results:
Hope that helps.
Terry in NW Wisconsin
I spooned the coal in first
Then used the alcohol/white glue mixture from a drip type bottle to saturate it
And you can easily spoon different shaped loads
Richard, I made my loads EXACTLY the same way. It was something I picked up here on the forum.
When I saw the article, my first thought was, `Rube Goldberg lives!’
Unless you’re modeling the Powder River Basin with full-size unit trains (several each) it’s just as quick (and results in a more realistic result) to use Cowman’s technique. My loaded empties in, loads out' cars will be set up with loads of that style, even though they don't have to be removable. My Have to be removable’ loads, live-loaded on a different track of the same colliery, will be loose pool-filter charcoal. They become empties when I dump them in a cassette specifically designed for that purpose.
Actually, there are about as many different ways of creating good looking coal loads as there are people doing it. Some are quicker than others.
Incidentally, for those who think identical loads are unrealistic, I once watched a crew at a Japanese colliery carefully rake the upper surfaces of a string of freshly-loaded hoppers into neat, uniformly sloped piles. I was told that it was done to keep lumps from falling out en route to the dock where the coal would be transferred to coastal steamers.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Chuck, I like your method a lot, although I have never tried it.
What about the metal washer and magnet idea suggested in the article. Does anyone use that method to “unload” the hoppers?
Rich
I see huge coal trains on the Joint Line between Denver and Pueblo almost every day. Believe me, from a distance (about the scale distance our eyes are from our trains) 90% of the loads look exactly the same. Of course, these are loaded with modern equipment.
Fun fact - at the point where the Joint Line crosses the “Denver Beltway” (C-470) the two mains are on separate bridges. The other day I went under them while a coal train was passing on each bridge - one NB and one SB. That was pretty cool.
Just had one of those moments. My other hobby (vice?) is my 110 gallon aquarium and for years I’ve been pitching the activated carbon from the filter. DUH! I could have probably “loaded” a mile long train of cars! From now on, I’m saving that black gold for RR recycling.
T-Bone,
You took the words right out of my mouth. I buy humidifier media at the big box. It may be cheaper than at the fish shop?
They look pretty good at beyond a foot or so.
Up close, not quite so pretty, but they sure are cheap:
I also paint the media different colors to represent things other than coal. For coal, I just leave it natural, as it looks good and saves paint. It’s also not messy, as there’s nothing loose once you’ve trimmed the media to your satisfaction.
I liked the MR article, as it good to see them demonstrated techniques that can be used to scratchbuild. I’ve been thinking of eventually casting my own resin loads as replacements for my filter loads.
Marion,
Got my basic idea from the forums and modified it to what I posted. Have put it on before too. Glad to know it has helped someone else, whether you used my idea or the original one.
Have fun,
Richard
I used the cardboard top method, poured in my coal and then the white glue.One of the reason I like this way is all my loads look different.
I stared with Woodland fake coal and it looks the best. But LHS ran out and I started using black ballast, not as good but I am happy with them.
Cuda Ken