First post, first real layout (not including all the ones I made as a kid), returning to the hobby after 25 years. I have a few questions and have done some searches without a real solid answer. Sorry if they’ve been asked before. I decided to copy the ideas that Paul Dolkos wrote about in the October 2008 issue using different track for different roadways applications. My HO layout will be using Code 100 Atlas for the main, and Atlas Code 83 for the sidings and yard with maybe a single Code 70 for a planned spur. My first (of many I’m sure) question concerns using any of the Atlas track I have purchased: when I attached it to the midwest cork roadbed the nails often end up in the seam between to the halves of the cork. Some of the nails I can simply push in by hand. Should I also be glueing the track down with a latex product as some do (so that I can remove the track if need be without damage) or try to position the track slightly off-center so that the nails hold better?
Next, most of the track I have purchased was code 83 (Atlas is the maker of all of the track I have), snap track mixed with flex. Since I read his article (and took pictures of the local N&W roadways nearby which mirror his suggestions to a tee) I went out and bought mostly code 100 flex. When I’m connecting pieces in the middle of a corner (48" plus radius) the rails don’t line up well. They sure don’t look like some on the pics in the magazine and in these forums:) Should I buy the snap track in code 100 to match the curves that I initially designed with my code 83, or am I just being to picky (I can upload a few pics if neccessary)? Lastly, do I cut down a single tie to slid under the connection point to take up the space from the joiners?
Thank you very much for your effort in educating me and my two young sons:) Sorry for the long post.
I use a Air finishing nailer to lay cork. I just did a whole box in my yard in about 25 minutes!
If I understand your question about the curve joints, I solder two sections of track together first, then start my curve. I always leave at least a six inch straight section, then solder another piece of track. This makes for a solid joint and I have had no derailments in curves.
The cork doesn’t hold nails very well, even without the joint between the sides. The nails have to go into the subroadbed to get any real hold. I like 1/2 inch nails, so after penetrating the 1/4 inch cork, there is still a 1/4 inch of nail to sink into the sub roadbed.
You can glue the track down if you like. The traditional adhesive is latex caulk from the hardware store. Get the clear stuff, it will dry almost invisible and it sticks well to the rather slippery plastic ties. Only down side of glue is it is harder to relocate track after it’s glued down. I find nails are enough to keep my track in place, so I don’t use glue.
To get a good smooth curve at flextrack joints, you can solder the rail joiners BEFORE you lay the track. You take two 3 foot pieces of flextrack and solder them together into one 6 foot piece. Or more for 48" curves. After you solder the track together it behaves just like one long piece and you can just flop it down on the cork and bend it around the curve.
And yes, I take the ties snipped off to get the rail joiners to join, cut the “spikes” off with an Xacto knife and slide them under the track joints to fill in the gap in the ties. Drill holes in the “fillin” ties and nail them in place if they don’t stay put by friction.
Do you realize that when using flex track on curves you will have to trim the ends as the rails are actually on a slightly different radii thus it is further around the outside rail than the inside one. Many folks recommend a rail nipper, others use a razor saw, some use a Dremel tool, I haven’t cut any yet as my little layout uses snap track section, next one I’ll decide which method I prefer.
Wow, it’s nice to join a forum with so many helpful people. The idea of simply soldering the two flex tracks together and then laying them felt like a lead weight had fell on me! I stopped to buy a few more sections and, of course, they were out! Using longer nails was also a great idea and one that I will use. Thank you for your time.
I have almost all my stuff from when I was a kid and most of it will stay in the box, however, I have found that the flanges do interfere with the track. I have only one engine, an SW1500 cow from Athearn that took me about six months to save up for when I was 10:), that I want to use so knowing that someone has already done this makes me feel better. It is in immaculate shape and will be a part of the layout someway. Thanks for the suggestions on the track as well.