did I messup
36 lenths of code 100
its peco
Oh, yeah, you messed up big time. Drop it off at my house and I’ll take care of it for you.
Seriously, that’s a great deal unless its used brass. Since it’s Peco, I assume it’s neither used nor brass. Sounds like you’ve got some track to lay, Bud.
On my Ho layout i bought at a yard sale i have code 100. Wich was not really my choice because all i am doing is replacing bad track and rewiring,scenery. Happy Modeling!
I use code 100 and you can make it look quite good with weathering and ballast. You are going to need some transition joiners to link your 83 to the 100. My preference would be the finer code, but I want to run some old locos that won’t run on 83.
i like code 100 personaly
I did see the joiners did not think of that thanks for that
this group of track sead ho/oo, is that much larger than ho
thats all I have dont think I have oo
I read that its so close you cant tell ho from oo with the naked eye
HO/OO track is 16.5mm wide. HO gauge is 1:87 and OO gauge is 1:76
??
code 100 does me fine
James
All of my hidden track is code 100, as is all of my specialwork. Properly ballasted and weathered, it looks just as good as code 83, unless you have Joe Nitpicker for a regular visitor.
Some of my visible track is code 83 on concrete ties. I really would have preferred code 100, but code 83 is what was available.
I also have several sidings laid with code 70.
Chuck
Code 100 is certainly more rugged. Code 83 and code 70 look better, especially in photographs.
Nothing says you can’t mix them.
I use code 100 for the main and code 83 for the yards on the Yuba River Sub. With painting and ballasting, the code 100 can be made to look pretty prototypical for a standard heavy-duty mainline. I know a lot of modelers prefer code 83 for the mainline, and it DOES look good, but I’m old-fashioned enough to like the ‘heft’ of code 100.
But then, I’ve never counted a rivet in my life, LOL!
Tom[:D]
the ebay aticle sead it was the brown tie’s
read that the brass I use is a bit {stickier}
this is a big concern to me as my layout is 90 % up hill grade
with this new track slip
I guess my over and under is the MAIN line for me
I just hope I can get the bachmann 4-8-4 j class to run
its been a bear up till now aI also have some older riverossi locos that will like to ride the 100
think I will try this code 100 with one of the main line on this double pike
hope I dont get too much slipping
K
Code 100 may be more rugged, but what in the world is happening on your layout where that’s a factor?
Code 100 is slightly larger than scale, but with painting and ballasting, this can be minimized. Code 83 is more prototypical, but being smaller, can require a little more skill in installing, but not much more. Larger layouts will use 83 in visible areas and 100 in hidden areas - it’s usually cheaper.
Another generality - because code 100 is usually a beginner’s track, the tie, plate, and spike details aren’t as fine or accurate.
Bud, you are correct that there is a difference between HO and OO scale in the proportions that you describe. However, the Guage, or distance between the tracks used in HO and OO is the same. I for example use all Atlas HO scale code 100 track and PECO OO/HO scale code 100 turnouts. The fit and work together perfectly. The Peco track does have a slightly dark brown color to the plastic ties compared to the black of the Atlas, but this does not matter as I paint and weather it all.
I use 83 for all trackwork that is visible and 100 for that which is hidden.
Another generality - because code 100 is usually a beginner’s track, the tie, plate, and spike details aren’t as fine or accurate.
less detail
no…
It really depends on the brand I think. Atlas Code 100 is a lot better finer detail now than it was a few years back. The spike detail in particular has become much finer. My LHS had a big box with a mixture, so I am always careful to pick out the finer ones. I think that you might find with the Peco track that the tie spacing is more British prototype than US, but in all honesty as I mentioned above, I mix the 2 brands and it is not something I notice at all.
Just leaning on a code 83 track can rip it out of the “spikes”, but mostly modular layouts that go to trades shows and are constantly being put up and taken down. With code 83 more time was being spent between shows with track repair than anything else. Switched to code 100 and have only had to repair a track once, and that was because of stupidity on the handlers part.
wow
code 100
47% (14 votes)
code 83
53% (16 votes)
close one
I like the peco with part of the rail imbedded in the ties
it has to be better then this old atlas brass
I have some work to do here
bet it will be worth the fuss
K
on my personal note I am going for high quality detail trackage, period.
The reality about code 100 is it will run anything, code 83 is OK also for the deep flanges of Rivarrossi and any other NEM flanges.
Prototypically only one area, the pennsy had such large rail, code 83 is closer to the prototype standard.
depends how you wanna model. treat it right and nobody knows or cares of the difference.