first post to the group, but I have enjoyed reading the topics for a few days now.
I will be starting to build my Ashcreek Lumber Co. railway, which is my version of the McCloud River Railroad. I have been planning, (dreaming) about this for a couple of decades now!! Some of you may have seen my pictures at http://www.trainweb.org/mccloudrails/Miscellaneous/AshCreekLumber01.html That was a little trial layout that I built into a small little pie shaped corner shelf in the last house.
We have since moved into a newer, and bigger home, and have finally got my own train room!!!
I am planning a shelf layout around three walls of a 12X12 room, with an island into the middle of the room.
Now here is my question! I want to stick with code 70 track for all the runs, and I like the ‘hand operated’ turnouts like the Peco brand that I can just snap to the diverging route. So, does any one have any experience with the Micro Engineering(ME) code 70 turnouts? If they don’t snap over, could I use a Caboose Industries, say…204s high level switch stand to help snap the ME points over? Would the Peco code 75 turnouts match up very well to the ME flextrack?
In other words, what is a good combination of Code 70 flex, turnouts and switch stands?
Any insight into the code 70 track thing would be appreciated!
There have been articles in MR about making your own over-center spring to latch the points one way or the other - just takes some piano wire, a couple of holes in the ties and throwbar, and a little fiddling.
The only drawback is the general unreliability (some have much better luck than others) of using the points’ contact with the stock rails to power the frog. I would want some form of electrical contact to power the frog with the correct polarity.
I may do this very same thing but I have a few questions. Is the Peco DCC friendly and does it match up well with the ME track? What about the code 80-70 matchup? Any operational problems? Lastly, is there any operational problems with using the ME #6s (or PECO #6) for higher-speed trains and six axle locos? I only ask because my track plan is with #6s and I wish not to change anything.
…J
So, using a ME code 70 switch that does snap over, do I just need to use a ridgid Caboose Industries switch stand? or a sprung one?
Do the ME flex track and the Peco switches look the same? I’m thinking that I’d rather use the same manufacture’s track and switches. Would there be much differance between the code 70 and code 75 heights? same rail joiners?
Anybody else hand throw the switches, and what Caboose Industries switch stand do you use?
I’ve never owned any peco stuff so I couldn’t tell you about that… 0.005" however, I don’t think is going to affect much. Also, I’m all tortise here so I’m not using the CI ground throws… If I were however, I’d probably opt for the sprung type… With the snap action of the turnout points, you only need to overcome the point mechanism and the sprung ground throws give a slight bit of lee-way and have a very slightly longer throw. I know when I was using them on my handlaid turnouts, they worked fine for those.
With respect to your DCC friendly question… I REALLY wish people would Forget that term. It’s a load of bull. If you really need a ‘friendly’ term to apply to your trackwork, use Electric Train Friendly… Check here, make sure your wiring is properly setup and won’t matter a hill of plaster if your turnouts are out of the box DCC Friendly or not… http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm