My “transition joints” go from Micro Engineering code 70 to either Atlas or Shinohara code 83.
My “dirty easy” transition joints are made this way:
I slip a ME C70 joiner all the way onto the ME C70 rail, then use the C83 joiner on the C83, while slipping the C70 rail and joiner into the other half of C83 joiner.
Makes a nice smooth joint, no cutting, no filing, no muss and fuss.
All of these joints are in the yard, as I did the yard ladder in pre-made (read factory) Shinohara (and one Atlas) C83, but the actual yard tracks are handlaid ME C70 rails.
That part of the layout is still up… Most of it was removed however to get ready for a move that fell through, but another option is in the works, so I have yet to re-assemble the remaining areas of the layout.
Great idea! Thanks. I too, bought some of the Micro Engineering Code 83 joiners (for HO Atlas Code 83 Flex) and they were (are) tighter than a gnats back side. This is a practical remedy. Thanks! FrankG [I] [Y] [B]
I actually prefer them to go on really tight. I have a handful I use when fitting tracks that have been used multiple time and so fit loosely, making it easy to attach and detach a section of track. Once everything it fit as it should be, I use fresh joiners so there is a tight fit. Even with feeders on all sections, it doesn;t hurt to have a good connection at the joiner. If they are tight like that - there’s really little chance of paint getting between the joiner and rail and insulating the joint - twice now I have built layouts in this fashion which worked perfectly fine with DCC with just one set of feeders hooked up - eventually I hooked all the feeder to the bus, but as soon as there’s power available I can’t help but start running trains.
Yes, the tip of my thumbs get a bit chewed up laying track from pushing the tight rail joiners on. I see that as just battle scars. Yes, I have occasionally slipped and put a nice gouge in a finger.
The last time I needed a bunch of joiners was during the Great Atlas Track Shortage. Fortunately, I had stockpiled Atlas flex track, but I ran out of joiners. I was using the 83/100 joiners and was happy with them.
I tried Pecos and found them too tight, but the Walthers ones were fine.
As others have previously mentioned, I like to use Atlas N scale Code 80 rail joiners on my HO scale Code 83 track. Yes, it takes a bit more effort to pre-size each joiner and to dress the rail ends prior to installing each joiner but the joints are nice and tight and the joiners nearly disappear once the track is painted and ballasted.
I’ve used both Atlas and ME Code 83 rail joners. The latter are smaller and much tighter. The problem I have is having to pry them open a bit to enable track to slide in without cutting yourself.
The Atlas joiners are much larger and more forgiving. I found that if you give the ma slight “sqeeze” with pliers you can make them tighter. My train mentor taught me that skill and it’s great. As others mentioned, you really don’t see the joiners. I find that painting or going over them with a paint marker hides them even more.
I don’t see any solution to the problem. Joiners are too tight. How do you loosen them? I’ve tried filing a rail to slide on a joiner and they never do. The joiners are just too tight. I am using PECO code 83 and their supposedly matched joiners. But they are not matched. And I can’t get the joiners to loosen. I’ve tried everything I know.
Go back to the 16th post in this thread, where Marlon illustrates the procedure, which should work for most rail and most joiners.
Whatever rail you’re using, take a left-over piece of it and alter it as described in the text and pictures. This one piece can be used as a tool to make all of the joiners, in-turn, appropriately wider, and therefore useful for your particular rail.
Don’t forget to dress the end of each rail prior to installing the joiner. Remember that whatever means we use to cut the rail will cause distortions in the rail web and base. I typically use a flat jeweler’s file to put a slight chamfer in the bottom and sides of the rail base and a round jeweler’s file to quickly create a similar chamfer in the sides of the rail web and tops of the rail base. With the rail joiner “pre-sized” on a piece of rail specifically modified for this use, and the rail ends dressed prior to joiner installation, the joiners should slip onto the ends of the rails more easily. They will remain tight and require a little effort to push entirely into place, but that is the type of connection desired. Be patient and you’ll eventually figure it out!
I’ve used both ME and Atlas rail joiners. The former often require some prying open to slide easily on the track; the latter is just the opposite. I give the Atlas joiners a slight squeeze so they’re not too loose.
Some say that the Atlas joiners are too large. Good point. I hide them by using artist paint on them so they look like rust spots. No one knows the difference. What about losing electrical connectivity? That’s what the feeders provide!