In regard to the derailing, have you weighted your cars to NMRA standards? The extra weight makes a big improvement in operations. Also, make sure you check every coupler height with a gage like the Kadee one. Many car makers ‘cheat’ a little on the coupler height.
ie sodering. If you just lay the tip to the rail dry it takes longer to heat the rail, also the heat travels and plastic stinks. Sweten the tip (apply a bit of soder after the tip is smookin hot) wait untill its hot, then get in and out quickley. A wet tip transfers the heat quickley, the soder may smoke a bit, exhale it away and you should have a nice shineeeey joint. If dull gray, it wasent hot enough) Otherwise the tip may be dirty or loose, perhaps a low amp sodering gun.
I use a rail jig maded out of 1/4 ply. cut two strips four or five inches long and about a inch or so wide. Cut another for the base say four or five inces square. Tack one strip along the top (track nails) with the factory edge towards the center.
Lay a piece of the type of track you use, against the tacked in piece, holding it snug, tack the other strip of ply against it forming a slot the perfect width of the ties. Using the factory cut edges along both sides of the slot.
Now you can soder straight joints in the center of the jig. Takes about ten minits to make and if a tie melts now, it wont warp down. extreamly easy to soder the track holding it in horz and vert alignment in awkkkkwwwarddd places.
the threads above are great help, thats what makes this hobby so fantastic, is tthe people in it,… er…perhaps other themn me…
Hope this helps.
I have built 7 or 8 layouts over the last 45 years, always used code 100 n/s flex (atlas) worked fine. I am nearing retirement and have a stiffer back and less acute vision. I have opted for something I think is better for my needs. Kato code 83 sectional track. I have been amazed what can be done with the wide variety of available pieces. I am also going with DCC. My layout is approximately 22x24 around the room shelf style. So far everrythng is coming together well. Large wye, track laying, scenery and wiring.
Just get the necessary information before you invest.
What is up with ya’ll!!!
you’ve been wasting your time arguing over a flippin point 1749284857383948494895…
just so some fancy smancy “master model railroader” can take out his microscope that can see the parts of the flippin atom and tell you you won’t be banished from model railroading because you’re usingthe correct rail size that the average joe can’t tell the #$@$%@##$ difference and doesn’t really care because he’s looking at the scenery ,the structures, the trains, and telling you how real your railroad looks compared to the prototype photos you have taped to the fascia. Model railroading was never meant to be an exact science. Why A.C. Kalmbach himself would laugh at our bickering over this subject. Prototype modeling is part of what makes this hobby diverse and great. Let’s just remember to have fun too.
Huh, have i missed the argument?
Wayne
I built a layout with code 100 track but decided to add the Walthers’ #8 double slip switch. This switch is available from Walthers only in code 83, even though the switch is manufactured by Shinohara. I soldered this track into the layout by mounting on blotter paper to raise the rail height to that of the code 100 rail. It worked fine. By the way, presoldering the flextrack rails together (after removing the ties is the way to go. Just be sure to use track gauges when you respike the rails.
Reviving an old thread…
I’ve decided to use Code 83 track on my layout. Primarily flex track and custom turnouts. Any comments? Should I solder the flex track or lay it with gaps for contraction/expansion? Or I’ve heard of folks alternating soldering the track, soldering one side, then on the next piece of track soldering the opposite side… Comments?
I’ve built a few small projects, but this next project should take me into retirement. 
Thanks for any comments. Blessings, Rob
Rob,
I’m only a little over a year into the hobby. I’ve used Atlas code 83 flex track and Peco code 83 turnouts right from the start. I solder both rails of the flex track on curves, don’t solder the straight sections (leave small expansion gaps), don’t solder the turnouts - and the only problems I’ve had are those typical for a novice. With a little extra work, I’ve eliminated these issues and everything runs fine. I’m running some big steam (2-10-2, 4-8-4) and don’t have any derailment or uncoupling problems
It does take some care and patience and perfection should be your goal. I’m not perfect but the closer you get the fewer problems you have. I’m also staring down retirement in a few years.
The only advantage I see to code 100 is it will handle older equipment that had oversized flanges on the wheels. It’s easy to find replacement wheels for rolling stock but good luck finding replacements for 25 year old Rivarossi locos. If you don’t have a need to run locos made before 1990, I see no reason not to go with code 83. Both 83 and 100 continue to be offered but code 83 has become the defacto standard for HO and I would be concerned about code 100 being phased out eventually if the demand for it dries up. That might not be for quite a while but I’m guessing it will eventually happen. The same thing happened when knuckle couplers replaced horn hooks as the standard. It took decades to happen but now a lot of new equipment doesn’t even come with horn hooks. I doubt that in 10 years anyone will even be producing horn hooks.