I’ve got a couple of questions that I hope some of you can answer for me.
My daughter and I are currently planning a new N scale layout. While not too big (apx. 8x6), the only practical location for it would be out in one of my sheds. I’m figuring on using part of a 10’x20’ shed: build a wall to partition off the back 12 feet, insulate and panel the walls, do the ceiling, lights, electric, maybe use some carpet that I have in storage on the floor. It can be made into a really nice ‘Train Room’.
The problem is heat, or rather the lack of it. I’ve got a couple of good electric heaters that I can use out there, but they’d only get turned on when we’re planning on running the trains. I live in South Jersey. Our winter low temps can drop into the single digits (or lower), but usually average in the mid to upper 20’s. The flip-side is that in the summer when closed up, the inside of the shed may reach 100-110 degrees! I’ll put an air-conditioner in the partition wall to cool the Train Room for use, but it’ll still get hot as you-know-where at times. We also tend to get somewhat humid around here.
So, what problems can I expect with the layout, locos, DCC system, Etc. due to being subjected to temps like that? Any thoughts on how long to let the room warm up/cool down before running trains?
Cold is the bigger culprit, and it’s further from 70 to 8 than it is from 70 to 105. Worst enemy will be condensation I believe, and the worst source of moisture is going to be YOU. When you run the heaters make sure you leave them on long enough to get things warm clean through. I would rig up an incoming vent with heater because it will be more effective than a dehumidifier. I have not investigated room sized dessicant dryers.
When building, paint/seal your wood good to try to minimize dimensional changes due to moisture.
Next issue is you are going to have to have good somewhat flexible trackwork to survive 110 degree temperature ranges.
But, it isn’t impossible by any means. My father built a separate building for his trains in the fifties in coastal Virginia. Brass track. Biggest thing I remember in cold weather, besides the kerosene heater, was him cleaning the rails and checking for gaps prior to operation. With todays track it should be a lot easier. Have fun.
I too have a heat problem. My layout is in the crawl space of our house with no heat and the temps are around 35-45 year round. It is dry though and I believe that helps out the situation.
My cheaper locos (Bachman) seem to be most effected. My Katos have no problem. I would image that a thin gear lube would be in order (one person mentioned transmission fluid). Since mine are all new I haven’t even serviced my fleet yet.
So far I have not noticed any problems with the DCC system (MRC PA and Digitrax decoders).
I guess it boils(ha) down to the amount of humidity in your air. If it high, I would take precautions otherwise I don’t think it will be a problem.
Stay warm and have fun.
Peter
One bit of advice-don’t put the AC unit in the partition wall. First, it needs to have lots of air circulation to dissipate the heat it is moving from one spot to another, and if the other spot just keeps getting warmer the AC will work less effectively. Second, there will be a meaningful amount of condensation on the evaporator that normally drains from the outside of a window or through the wall unit. This will make a mess in the other room over time.
Good question. I too have an out building… 12x20. It’s part deer camp, part train room, part goof off room. We’re gonna run a regular line out… rather than the heavy duty extension cord I now have. Even though it’s insulated really good, I need to have an air conditioner as well. It’s the late afternoon when the heat builds up.
First, Thank You for the posted replies and also for those who did a reply via email, a second Thank You.
From the sound of things, while doing the new layout in the shed will work, it’s also got the potential be a major hassle. But, it’s pretty much use one of my 2 sheds (10x20 & 12x24) or be limited to a 4x6 layout in the house. The only room I could use in the house is 10x10 and already has my modelling workbench which takes up 1 full side of the room and ranges from 20 to 30 inches deep. Scale modelling is my main hobby, so I won’t give up my workspace and really can’t trim it down enough to bother. So, it looks like I’m gonna be making a list of ‘shed problems’ from all your posts, and working them out.
I’d already decided on using a foam board base and Woodland Scenics styrofoam risers/inclines, so expansion & contraction of the benchwork won’t be as big a problem as it could be with other materials. I can also design the benchwork so that the foamboard is just sitting on it, so the wood can expand & contract all it wants without actually effecting the layout.
It also won’t be that big a deal to make a carry/storage case to keep the locos & DCC system in the house. I’ll take it out with me after the shed has warmed up. But, the rolling stock, turnout controllers and such will have to deal with the temp changes.
As for the A/C, I’ll have to think of something since I don’t to cut a hole in the shed wall to mount it.
From what you guys have said, my biggest concern & potential headache, is expansion & contraction of the track. Using a piece of sheet plastic to gap sectional track is no problem. But, I’m working 2 possible trackplans, and both have broad, sweeping curves that will require flex-track (11" minimum radius on secondary and branch lines, maybe 15" min. on onside curves of the double-track main. So, unless I totally rework my trackplans, I’ll have some long sections of flextrack on the curves. Would the Woodland S
Condensation, as mentioned before, will be your biggest problem. Constant changes in temperature and humidity will create a potential for corrosion on track and electrical connections. Your benchwork will have to be constructed to withstand the shrink/ swell of the wood as it goes through the humidity changes as well. The expantion/contraction of the track is not really as big an issue as you may think, just leave a few small expantion gaps in critical areas and you will be fine.
It sounds like you have a pretty good plan already in place to combat the problems. No railroad, model or full scale, is immune to the laws of physics. Once you understand what you are dealing with you can create solutions for the problems. I say build it, but with a mind for working around a condensation problem.
