I am getting ready to weather a corrugated metal-sheathed grain elevator. This is a scratch built reprresentation of a fairly run down structure. I am using acrylic paints to make these washes. My question is: what colors do I use to make these washes for rust and at what ratios?
Also, since I’m using acrylic paints that wash up with water, can I use plain water as a dilutant to make the washes or should I use paint thinner?
You will have to experiment, I used burnt umber and burnt sienna on my car trucks as for the ratios, experiment on another peice of plastic first, with acrylics you have some time to play with the colors before they dry.
People have used all sorts of fluids for thinning acrylics: running alcohol, winshield washer fluid, water, commercial thinner, etc. I have even tried vodka (it works pretty well).
My suggestion is to try some of the other stuff and see how it reacts BEFORE you try it on a model. Some of the alternative thinners will cause the paint to clump up and congeal, but it depends on the paint and the thinner.
Dave H.
I’m using the Ceramacoat (brand) liquid acrylics, not the artist’s pastes. I have diluted these paints with water but just a little bit can make a liquid acrylic very thin. What consistency do I need to make an effective wash but not too thin?
I use tube acrylics and water. I use the two umbers and the two siennas and black. Expermentation is best, but if you look at a lot of tin roofs, you will see about every color in the earth tones. Remember that a lot of the color is not rust but staining from the dirt that blows onto the roof and then washes down with the rain. If there is a chimney, what is burned will determine the stains around the chimney.
I use tube acrylics and water. Colours can be a mix of all sorts of things. I use burnt sienna, raw umber, burnt umber, black, green and red oxide. The green is very handy if it all gets too red.
Mike
Thanks, guys.
I guess I’ll have to go out and get me some tubes of paste acrylics.