I have just purchased six Con Cor streamlined passenger cars. In addition to other things, I would like to upgrade the couplers. The original truck mounted couplers seem to disconnect from the trucks very easily. Also, the truck mounting seems to be very sloppy. I have seen references to converting to body mounted couplers but I cannot find any details as far as what couplers to use (and I have spent some time looking). My minimum radius will be about 26". Any suggestions as far as couplers and/or truck replacement? I suspect that, if I keep the original trucks, replacing the truck mounting pins with screws would be a good start. Am I right?
Thanks as always.
Dave
P.S. I just got the latest posting from Jason Shron at Rapido. Fantastic stuff! The Canadian is to die for but unfortunately if I was to buy one I would be dead!!![:'(][(-D] My wife would still love me - dead or alive - her choice!!!
I own a set of Con-Cor passenger cars and converted from truck mounted couplers to body mounted couplers.
Initially, the cars would consistently uncouple and derail. So, in desperation, I removed the trucks and truck-mounted couplers and replaced them with Kadee body-mounted couplers and Jay-Bee mounting pads and Walthers metal passenger car trucks.
The problem with Con-Cor cars is that the trucks are lightweight plastic and the couplers are truck mounted with offset center trucks. They will never stay on the track without modifications.
There are some good ideas already posted here. I’ll explain how I have modified many Con Cor passenger cars. I have 30" curves instead of 26" curves, but I believe this should work for 26" as well.
Couplers: I use Kadee long centerset couplers. I make my own mounting pads using flat plastic about 1/16" thick. I make a small rectangular piece that fits across the two long, molded-in, under-frame pieces. I drill a hole through the rectangle.
I determine the distance from the end of the car for the pivit point of the coupler. Normally, I use about 3 1/2 HO scale feet from the extreme end of the car. Cars should not bump into each other on curves, but should be a close coupling distance. The cars have plastic diaphragms molded in the car ends, and these must clear each other at all times.
Drill a hole for a self tapping screw. Place the couplers in their coupler boxes, and then screw them into the floor. Check height with guage, and adjust height as needed with thin shim or with filing.
Make sure trip pins are adequately above rail tops, and adjust if needed.
trucks: I have replaced trucks with better quality trucks, but most of my Con Cor passenger cars still have orignal trucks. Mine stay on the tracks after cars are at correct weight. So, I suggest you save your money, and use the orginal trucks.
Weight … My cars have weight added to them, and weigh about 7 1/2 ounces. I have used “stick-on” weights froim the hobby shop. Also, I have made my own (low budget) weights from steel bars I have cut to appropriate length. The steel bars are held to the car floors with an adhesive.
Interior … .You may install interior seats using some of those available in hobby shops. Most of my cars do not have interi
I use the #508 conversion bolster on my IHC lightweights which are similar to Con-Cor. The problem with body mounted couplers on passenger cars is getting enough side to side swing on the coupler. This conversion bolster gives you a solid truck mounting for a good Kadee coupler. http://kadee.com/htmbord/page508.htm
Two things you need to be careful about:
Read the instructions carefully about the differences in installation depending if you use 33" or 36" wheels. The bolster installs to accomodate either size wheel with a small variation in how to do it. 36" is prototypically corred for passenger cars.
The coupler should install at the correct height. #5 couplers are included in the 508 kit. Use the Kadee height gave to check this. I have had a couple of cases where the coupler is a bit too high; I have replaced the supplied coupler with a #42 “medium overset” coupler. DOn’t worry about extra #5 couplers, they are a standard repalcement for most couplers. http://kadee.com/htmbord/page42.htm
Thanks everyone for the great advice. I had found the reference to the Kadee #508’s on their website since I first posted. I am having second thoughts about mounting the couplers on the bodies because of the 26" curves so I think I will go the 508 route.
I would like to install interiors and the cars obviously need some weight added. I have found a source for interior details at a reasonable cost. http://www.palacecarco.com/products.php?cat=4 and there are weights included with the kits.
I would also like to add interior lighting. For that, I think I will cost out a DYI solution vs the Rapido ‘easy-peasy’ battery powered option.
I know that there are likely a few of you who are questioning my sanity regarding buying the cheapest passenger cars I could find (paid about $10.00 each) and then pumping a bunch of money into them when I could have bit the bullet and ordered the Rapido Canadian. The Rapido is truly awesome. My only problem with it is that it is RTR. The only input I would have would be to unpack it and maybe tweek the decoders a bit. I get a lot more fun out of modeling something myself. I will never achieve the incredible level of accuracy that Rapido has but I will be able to say “I did it myyyy way” (don’t ask me to sing the phrase!). Like I have said before - I will just run the trains faster so nobody will notice[}:)]
Cudos to Jason Shron and gang. Maybe we could convince them to offer the Canadian in kit form!
I am not one of those few. I did what you did. Bought the Con-Cor cheapies and upgraded them with new couplers and trucks. In my case, I bought the NYC passenger cars, I am actually pleased with the appearance of the cars and the level of detail. On the layout, they don’t look cheap at all.
Rich, one thing you might want to try is a combination of what’s been suggested so far (convert to body mounted couplers and use a long shank coupler) and one thing I’d add. Install the couplers in a pocket that allows a bit of side-to-side swing. I’ve used these on several of my passenger and long freight cars with much success. They help control the up and down movement of the coupler and allow a small amount of swing for curves. Although the name of the item implies they’re for Athearn cars, they work well on others, too.
I am very happy with my Con Cor cars. Mine are the short Santa Fee Valley Fliers but with a little work they track great.
Hard part was getting the roof’s off. I cut the plastic taps that sick out on the bottom of the cars and got there weight up to NMRA standards.
Some of my cars had plastic wheels, I replaced them with PK 2000 36 inch wheels. Most of them cam with steel wheels, I tuned the trucks on the none free wheeling cars.
I used Kadee coupler pockets. First I glued the pockets to the floor. I did have to file a few of the bodies so the shank of the coupler would clear and move freely. I used long shank drop, centered and a few raised couplers to get the knuckles where they should be. I glued the couplers on first, then after I was happy I used a self tapping 2/56 screw to hold the lid on too the coupler box.
If yours has the round weight over the trucks that the truck screw screws into, get some lock tight. The screw likes to back out.
I still have 2 18 inch turns and the long shank couplers and the shorter cars handle them just fine. I am guessing you have the longer cars, I bet you will do fine on a 26 turn.
If you like to tinker, they are a great bargain. If you want just run them with out working on them, not a RTR car. But, most RTR cars need work any way. Ready To Repair.
You have me back at the drawing board[:^)] Your solution sounds very interesting and I like the idea of reducing the up and down movement that truck mounted couplers might suffer from.
I agree with Rich and Dave, except I started with IHC cars. No one makes MEC or B&M lightweight passenger cars with the correct paint and interiors. I stripped the cars, added wire grabs, added weight, painted with AlClad and added the colored stripe, painted the inside in the color schemes used on these cars, kitbashed the IHC interior to a close match to prototype, and used Miniatronics lighting kits.
MEC 244 P-S Coach “Sagadahoc”
MEC 244 Interior
BM 4806 P-S Coach “Chickadee”
I can justify the cost of these better than $50 to $75 for those expensive RTR cars. Next is a kitbash to make an MEC combine, cutting up a coach and baggage car to get close to the prototype.
