I will be using Atlas Switch machines (see other topic posted) on my layout. I know they are not as desirable as the undertable machines, but I am using several switches that I already have and inherited from my Grandfather. I am looking for advice on creative ideas and methods to conceal these large black plastic devices, maybe lay some plaster cloth over these?? How can I make these part of the landscape.
Looking for ideas!!!
There are several adapters - I believe Rix makes one - that allow you to mount the Atlas switch machines under the table.
You have to be careful about covering them - the height of the concealment that close to the track may interfere with locomotives/passenger cars/cars rolling by. Watch your clearances!
Hope this helps.
Fred W
Atlas also makes under table switch machines and parts are available to convert old machines to under table use. I’ve used under table atlas switch machines successfully on a track profile of 5/8" ply with cork or foam road bed and code 83 track. I have to trim the actuating rods a bit, so I believe the machines could probally be used with a sub-bed of maybe 3/4".
I built a loading dock to go over one of them. It’s only 3-sided so as not to interfere with the engines coming in on the diverging track as they round the bend. The top is made from coffee stirrers, and the base is cut from a hydrocal casting with a stone wall mold.
Like Fred says, a cover could interfere with rolling stock. However I remember an article on covering switch machines with a removable cap made of papier-mâché colored to blend in with the surrounding ground cover. Like a little hill.
Atlas did try to make them look like some sort of prototype switch motor. But they’re not like any switch motor I’ve ever seen. Maybe you could dress them up a bit with Switch Heater.
You could try to convert one switch machine to under the table type using a Rix Switch Machine Mounting Bracket #5, like Fred mentioned, to see if it will work. If it does, great. If not, you’re out four bucks and some time.
You should also check out Fred Miller’s Tutorial on adapting and hiding Atlas switch machines over at 2guyz. It has a lot of interesting tips.
John
You can flip the motors over so the bottom side is up then all you have is a flat surface to try to hide. Just make shure you carve out under where the motor is so there it is not resting on anything. If you have the newer switches they have left & right hand motors. So when you flip them over you have to use a right hand motor on the left hand switch & a left hand motor on the right hand switch. I have done it , works fine.
Larry
I contacted Atlas and purchased just the throw arm for the under table switch machines. It was easy to open up the machine and replace the arm. This arm is 1 1/4 long (1.250). If you use thick foam it will not work without some major carving. Be sure to get the plastic support block that comes with the under table switch machine as well. This will not work for the real old switch machines, only the newer style. My original plan was to purchase the under table machines as my tabletop models failed. They are pretty reliable so that was not working out real well. I ended up saving quite a bit of money doing it this way.
Jim
If you are going to use under the table swtich machines for your Atlas switches, I have a method for installing them that makes it easier than the conventional get-under-the-table-and-grunt method. I put a dab of plastic cement on the flat side of the machine, then carefully locate the switch arm through the hole in the moveable switch tie, the press the machine into place while working the slide arm to ensure good movement of the frog. When satisfied that it works well, I simply hold the machine in place until the glue sets up (about two minutes or so). After that it becomes simple to get under the table and work with both hands free, instead of holding the machine in place while trying to put in the mounting screws and contact screws. I also solder lugs onto the ends of the wires connected to the machine, then just slide the lugs under the contact screws.
I have conceiled them by extending the throw arm. I take pieces of piano wire, bend hooks on each end after determining how far removed from the turnout I want the switch motor to be. Then before install I insert into either a section of straw or orther tubing, essentially making like a choke cable operation. Then I can remotely mount the switch motor and cover. I have been able to put buildings over/in front of, relay boxes, bushes, etc. All these items are still removable because invarably the one you secure is the one that needs replaced. After getting the wire installed, I wrap the wire around the switch motor throw arm and glue/ca/acc, and the is motor adjusted to how it works best I secure the motor with a couple screws and some matte medium underneath the motor. Also crimping over the hooks in the wire extensions a bit. If your wire is too small or the hole you drilled was too big, a small drop of CA works fine to hold it in place on the turnouts throw arm. I can photo and send if I am not explaining very well, if you like.
My layout is in the garage area and these have endured the tempurature changes well. Only thing that has thrown it off was twice, once because as I was demoing this to a friend I put the building back down and it was on top the tubing and did not allow it to full move, and the second was cause of ballasting, which was cured by cleaning it out and being a little more cautous aruond them better.
The best solution is to buy the under table switching machines for them as long as it is feasable to use them.
I have a couple places where I was forced to use top mounted Atlas switch machines because of where the joists fell and it would be a major undertaking to move them or hollow out a hole to put an underneath machine. I was resigned to living with it until I saw your post and got to thinking about ways to disquise them. I came up with the idea of painting the flat part a concrete color and fabricating an electrical box around the raised part. I got the idea from looking at a photo of a rail yard and seeing an electrical box between the tracks. It looks like there is just enough room to do that without interfering with passing trains although it may require a thin sheet of styrene on the tracks side of the machine.
I have used a keyhole drill bit to open up a joist for the under table Atlas machine with good results. It is a lot easier than trying saw or chisel it out and minimizes the “earthquake” effect on the layout as well.
Jim
I painted one switch machine the same color as the ballast and it looks fine.
Hi:
I have successfully concealed the Atlas snap switch motor by first disconnecting the motor [snaps off] and then mounting upside down to the switch. You need to fabricate a small L shaped wire, which can be connected to the existing lever with a small square tube and glue. The whole assembly is attached to the underside of the switch with heavy double-sided tape [from Staples]. It’s easier if your lay-out is on 1 inch foam board because it’s easy to carve out a hole for the switch motor. Hope this helps along with all the other advise that I see in the discussion thread.
Alan from Canada
I used a couple of these on my first layout. I covered one with foliage flock and the other with fine ballast with great success and no problems with clearance (this was in N scale).
Ron