IDRick suggested that I do a ‘Cliff Notes’ (Coles Notes for us Canadians) version of my now very long winded thread about building a layout on a rotisserie, so here goes:
Here is the original (actually second original) thread:
The original premise was to figure out a way to be able to get at the underside of my layout without crawling on the floor or otherwise having to squeeze my 6’2" frame with a partially fused spine under the layout to do the wiring and Tortoise installations, etc. I also wanted to have the layout low enough that I could operate it from a seated position, again because of my back problems.
The original thread is approaching 900 posts and has had just over 44,000 views so it is getting a bit lengthy and it would be unreasonable to expect anyone to follow through from the beginning if they had just discovered the thread. Here is the condensed version minus all the segues from the original topic.
The layout is 5’4" x 12’. The size was chosen to make the best use of standard sheeting materials. The width is exactly 2/3 rds of a standard 4’ x 8’ sheet. Two full sized sheets therefore covers an area of 5’4" x 12’. No waste. Minimal cutting, and the size fits my available space in my garage perfectly.
The layout is standard box frame construction using 1x4s with a center spine made of a 1x6 and two 1x8s. The layout benchwork is mounted on two end panels made of 3/4" plywood with 4" castors using two rotating brackets so that the layout proper can be tilted to almost 90 degrees each way.
Here are some pictures that will better explain the assembly:
The benchwork was built in two halves that were then joined together along the central spine. The spacing of the cross members is not equal. I have positioned them to try to avoid conflicts with the Tortoise motor postions.
Ooops, it might be nice to include a track plan in the thread, don’t ya think!
The layout is set in the transition era. The original inspiration was MR’s Beer Line but there have been so many changes that there is little remaining resemblance other than the basic oval concept. Canadian Pacific will be the dominant railroad.
Here is the plan. Just to cover all the bases, it is HO scale with Code 100 on everything except the service yard. The yard will be Code 83 primarily because the Peco Code 83 double slip turnout fit the plan much better. I am using an NCR DCC system which will eventually be wireless with 5 amps. Turnouts are controlled via Tortoises. I will use Rapido Rail Crew uncouplers at strategic locations. I am making my own signals. They will be used to indicate turnout positions only. Nothing too fancy.
At first glance the plan appears to have a double main line but that isn’t quite how it will function. The inner of the two ovals will be the main line. The outer oval will serve as a feeder to the center yard, service area, spurs and eventually to a separate main yard that will run off to the upper left. You can see the two turnouts that will feed the yard.
I decided to re-read the original 900 post thread. Most of the posts were mine. I guess I talk too much! There were a lot of asides, most of which were interesting. I should do a summary of the off topic posts.[swg][(-D][(-D]
Dave, sweet, awesome job on the summary! Very helpful! I think this is a good start for an article in MR! Many of us older modelers could benefit from the rotisserie approach! I’d like to use this approach for prep work on open grid sections:
draw in track plan,
install roadbed & track,
install track feeders & buss,
install turnout control & control panel,
install accessory wiring for lighting the layout,
plan location and dimensions of scratchbuilt buildings
After completing steps 1 through 6, move to the around the walls base benchwork. Nice no work under the layout for my old achy knees!
I do have a request, can you provide more details on the pivot points? What parts did you buy and source? Love this idea! Kudos again!
I tried 4" pivot plates at first but they were way too flimsy. The 7" plates are very solid and there is virtually no slop in the bearings.
The trickiest part was getting all of the bolts in place. There was very little room between the end supports and the benchwork, and the bolts had to be long enough to go through the 3/4" plywood on the end supports. On the benchwork side I used two #14 pan head screws in each of the four holes instead of bolts. Bolts wouldn’t work because the center spine was blocking the spots where they would have come through the frame.
There were questions raised about whether or not the pivot plates would work when mounted vertically, but I’m not concerned. They actually won’t be rotated all that often.
I do suggest covering the plates with a cloth when you are working on the benchwork so that wood shavings don’t get down into the bearings.
The castors have 4" wheels. I went with the larger wheels so that the layout would be easy to roll. My garage floor is a bit rough.
