Hi Module clubs
What do you use to connect 12 gauge buss wires between modules? It should
be easy to connect, and disconect.
Chris
I use 4-pin connectors from All Electronics. They are polarized, and have 4 color-coded wires, which makes it easy to know which wire connects to which rail. They can’t be connected wrong.
The All Electronics catalog number for them is CON-40. I just cut the wires in the middle, which gives me a set for each module.
I have tried and tried to paste an image of one but this new software doesn’t allow that any more.
Go to the All Electronics web site at http://www.allelectronics.com and type in CON-40 as a search item.
While not modules, my layout is designed to be movable. This is how I do mine between the parts that come apart. Also 12 Gauge. Just undo the two wires into the strip and away we go.
Most of the newer modular standards use Anderson Power Poles, generally the 30 amp variety. They are inexpensive, come in a variety of colors, and can be stacked into horizontal or vertical configurations. Even HO Free-mo is considering the switch from C-J plugs to Anderson PP.
Our HOn3 Free-mo standard copied the Sn2 Free-mo. We use red and black Anderson PP connectors stacked vertically at each end for the track bus. When looking at the module end, the red connector attaches to the right rail. This matters for Free-mo, because modules can be reversed end-for-end at any given setup. Then red plugs into black at both ends of the module. Typically, module internal wiring runs between screw barrier strips at each end. Then a 12" pigtail with the Anderson PP is attached to the terminal strip (the pigtails are generally taped or tied up under the module at disassembly).
Assembly consists of setting the module on its legs, and pushing the modules together. Then fine-tune the alignment by feeling and sighting the rails at the junction and adjusting the legs - we are now set up to adjust legs at the top. Then connect the Anderson PPs pigtails (20 sec at most), connect up the throttle bus (RJ-12 plugs and jacks), and we are done. Total time to add a module at setup once the legs are assembled is maybe 5 minutes on an uneven floor.
FWIW, we have a 12 volt DC bus using blue and white Anderson PP (blue positive, white negative) for Tortoise and other similar needs.
Details can be found at the hon3-free-mo Yahoo group. The top-adjusting legs were an article in the 2013 HOn3 Annual.
just my experiences
Fred W
I looked up Anderson Power Poles at Gateway Electronics, and came up with no match.
Is there another name for this?
Chris
Gidday Chris,
Just our way. Hope it helps.
Cheers, the Bear.
These are available everywhere and are cheap and very reliable.
I’ll second the use of what JIM, suggested. Then you can drive your layout anywhere. [:D]
Frank
Just don’t cross the wires or when you turn up the throttle your stucture lighting may blink [*-)]
The issue with the trailer connectors in modular model railroading and at home towing my trailers is that the plugs are not totally standard from one manufacturer to the next. I’ve seen pin spacing off slightly, especially on the “ground” pin, and an inability to push the plugs together tightly. Most of the time, it could be made to work, but I sure wasn’t a happy camper (pun intended). On occasion, I would get so frustrated that I would cut off the plugs on both ends and replace with new plugs on both trailers and vehicles (bought at one store at one time), so that they would all match.
In modular model railroading, there’s nothing as disheartening as guys arriving at a setup from a distance aways - and their modules won’t hook up or work electrically. Whenever I see trailer plugs as the part of the electrical spec, I cringe because I know sooner or later somebody will show up with a plug that won’t work.
4 wire trailer plugs also have resistance issues in a long daisy chain of modules (especially when they don’t fit together as well as they should), which defeats the purpose of running #12 wire for your bus in the 1st place. And the leads at the plugs are not 12 gauge. The 4 wire trailer plugs are not continuously passing heavy current - it’s only light bulbs that are not that sensitive to voltage drops. And it’s only one plug in the circuit. When heavier currents are wanted for trailer brakes and trailer battery charging, the 6 and 7 pin trailer connectors are much more robust and are truly standardized from one manufacturer to the next.
These are the reasons why mos
This is the type of connector we use to connect the bus wire between moduals.
Mark
I second the terminal strip connection.
At the module club I belong to, we have Cinch-Jones connectors for a standard, but there are some who use the Anderson Power-Poles. They will have PP connections on the modules, and connect between them with cables with PP’s on each end. Then they have a PP-CJ cable to connect to other modules. It works OK, but only if they remember to bring the cables with them.
I terminate the bus wiring on my modules with terminal strips, and have CJ plugs connected from them. If a plug gets damaged, it can be easily replaced. Plus, even if there are no plugs, you can easily jump between modules with plain wire.
John
If you will be setting your mod up with other people’s, you need to conform to their standard.
If, like me, you are just building your own in modules in case you ever have to move it, then any plug that can handle the current and cannot be plugged in backward will do. I use terminal strips, meticulously labeled.