I have code 83 bridge track to go with the bridge im installing but the rest of my layout consist of code 100. What the best way to mate the 2 together?
It looks 2 me like transistion joiners & some shims under the 83 would do the trick, just want to know if there is a better way to go about it.
If you’re using different code track, that is the way to do it.
Is there any way you can put code 100 track on your bridge and eliminate the need to transition to/from code 83 ?
I had an old Atlas bridge with code 100 rail in it. The rest of my layout is code 83. By grabbing the rail on the bridge with a pair of pliers, I was able to slide it out from under the ‘spikes’ on the bridge. I just had to slide in the new code 83 rail in it’s place. Some CA under the spikes held the new rail in place. I found out the hard way that when it comes to buying the transition rail joiners; don’t. Save your money and just shim up the code 83 to meet it. Use a steel rule to make sure that the code 83 rail is flush with the code 100, then solder.
The adapter rail joiners are very difficult to use. Basically, you must file the foot of the rails to bevel them so that the joiner will slide on…otherwise you could slice your finger tip trying to press it on.
Do you really have to “join” them, or could you leave them gapped at the bridge, and use a hidden jumper for power to the bridge.? That way, you can elevate the bridge enough that the different code rails meet at the same height. Or, use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to force the code 83 rail upward in the joiner if you do join them with a regular joiner. Slide the joiner on both code rails, put one jaw under the code 83 rail and the other over the code 100, and rotate so that the code 83 rises to meet the code 100. That has worked for me so far…providing you provide support for the elevated code 83 rail with some grains of ballast under it.
Slide a code 100 rail jointer over the code 100 rail. Sma***he open end of the rail jointer flat with pliers and solder the code 83 rail on “TOP”. The rail will be real close to the right height and minor adjustments can be made before soldering.
If you are using Atlas for both 83 & 100 the ties are thicker on the 83 so no shims are needed.
Follow Medina’s suggestions, I too did exactly what Medina suggested and it works great. I actually removed about 15" of ties from the Atlas Code 83 Flex track, slid the rails thru the bridge , and reinstalled some of the ties back to the flex track. I then installed on my layout. So I now have a seamless and very smooth approach, over bridge and about 6 inches to another piece of flex.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I have a double main going over the bridge so maybe i will try a different method with each so in the future i will know what works best for me.