I am building a few extensions to my N scale 8x4 layout , using some 1x12 boards. How do the pros get the track sections to line up and re-connect them time after time? I have considered using a small section of track maybe 8" or so and ending the track on the removable sections about 4" from the end of the board, and about 4" from where it will connect to my main layout. Also, I’m not nailing the track all the way to the end where the 8" section will be, so there is a little play if I need it to connect the sections.
Any sugestions here?
You’ve got the right idea, Instea. The people in NTrak have been doing it for years with their gigantic modular setups, and know how to do it. Check out their web site at www.ntrak.org to see how they do it.
NTRAK specifies an Atlas re-railer section. The tracks on the module are generally glued (or pinned) to the roadbed out to their ends ang ballasted. The area where the connector track fits is kept clean. Since the modules are built by indivdules and groups, who may have never met before, this helps account for the inevitable misalignments in the track. Actually many of the connector sections have to be cut to fit, and flex track is used when the gap is too wide. Also setting back the track reduces the chance of damage during transport. C-clamps are used to connect NTRAK modules together to allow for minor adjustments in the positioning of the tables (modules).
When the sections are constructed together and always used in the same sequence, running the track to the end of the section and attaching it rigidly to the roadbed and table works well. Generally the rails laid across the gap and soldered to nails or screws driven through the roadbed on both sides of the gap… After everything is in place, the rails are cut. Some method, for instance dowels, is used to ensure proper alignment of the sections. This method is very commonly used for Train Show display layouts in England. I’ve seen it in the US too.
usually the joiners are slid back, when positioned, needlenose pliers slide them to connect when aligned, no messing with the modules to connect the track, it may mean cutting back a few ties however to do it.
INSTEA,
Youv’e got the right idea. Our club used 2" Atlas sectional track to jump the gap between modules. We did not want that ugly 9" section. The 2" sections work great. We modified every one of them by removing the spacer underneath the rails between the ties on one rail, so that the section will curve if necessary. Many of our tracks are curves across the module joints and straight sections would not work. The 2" adjustable sections can be made to duplicate the radius of the curve and fit right in. Rail joiners remain on the track ends of the module and are moved into place with a small screwdriver. Lay the track by connecting the modules together, nailing down the 2" section across the joint, then building the track from the 2" section, leaving a small gap for expansion/contraction. Once the main track is down on the module, remove the 2" drop in piece.
In operation, the 2" pieces are hardly noticeable at the joints. We paint the roadbed the same color as the ballast, and sometimes ballast up to the outside of the ties where the section will fit. Looks good and performs great.
Mark C.
thanks for the help and advice![:)]