We do that all the time. Our club layout is semi-modular, in that there are multiple configurations that can be assembled depending on the size of the venue, but it’s not completely intechangeable like Freemo on NTrak. As such, when sections are put together, sometimes the two sets of PowerPoles don’t have the same numbe rof connections. The color coding though makes it easy to see which way the smaller connector needs to attach to the larger.
–Randy
Sorry, I forgot all about this thread.
I would use 3 of these 16 way Delphi connectors. They will take a 14 gauge wire:
Or you can use a single large junction connector:
If you want to do it on the cheap, visit a bone yard. Get the hard shells there then buy some new terminals.
http://www.powerandsignal.com/docs/DCS%20Global%20Catalog.pdf
The connectors above can be had with as few as 8 connections or as many as 36. I use them to connect the electricals on some removable yard throats - everything from route indicators to point motor and track power. I used #22 wire, solid where the female socket is screwed to the removable framework, stranded for the short cable coming off the male plug to the terminal strip a few inches away, where it ties into the rest of the layout electricals.
When it comes to disconnecting something so it can be taken to a workbench, simply separating a single plug has it all over disconnecting a bunch of separate wires from terminal strips.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
How many wires do you need. Go an buy a old parallel port printe EXTENSION cable, or mayby a serial port EXTENSION cable.
Cut it in half and you have a plug for each end of the cable, and the wires to attach to whatever. That is how I wired this model board into the layout.
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MOLEX multi-pin connectors and other similar types have been in use for many years and are a cost effective solution. They are more thanb reliable enough for typical model railroad application provided they are used correctly. There are three cardinal thing regarding the use of crimp terminals. The first is to spend the money for a good quality ratchetting crimp tool specifically made for the type of terminal in question. Second, use terminals that are made for the wire size being crimped. The third is never attempt crimp connections on solid (single core) wire, regardless of wire size. A crimp connection to solid wire is an invitation to failure.
Rex Beistle
Thanks for the tips on using Molex connectors. They are what I plan to use and I was not aware of the the points that you made regarding the use of the crimp terminals. I do plan on using stranded wire but, for my edification, I do have a follow-on question. When referring to “crimped” connections does this preclude soldering. I always assumed that the wire is soldered to the connection. I ask this because of your warning about using solid wire. Why would the type of wire (solid or stranded) matter is the connection is soldered?
Thanks
Stranded wire tends to be used in places where there may be movement. Consider, for example, that type MTW wire is Machine Tool Wire. And is finely stranded.
If you solder stranded wire to a connection, vibration tends to cause the wire to break at the point where the solder stops in the stranding. Of course, this doesn’t always happen. But it CAN. So it is bad form to solder stranded wire in a crimp connection. Same thing might happen after repeated removals of panel from layout. Maybe. Wanna find out???
In my lifetime of electrica experience, I’ve never seen a properly crimped non-soldered connection fail. And darn few non-properly crimped, for that matter.
Get the special tool. And don’t waste your time soldering.
Ed
Thanks. I do like the idea of not having to solder so that is what I will do.
Actually, soldering is always preferred over crimping, even in high vibration environments.
From Toyota:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf
And a recent safety recall from Ford:
From GM on page 42:
https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/623/New_Elect_BP_05_27_15.pdf
Note this, extracted from the document:
Avoid using too much solder which can result in “wicking.” Wicking results when excessive solder is applied to the terminal and it begins to travel up the wire core, like candle wax up a wick. This can cause the wire to become stiff or brittle and produce a flex point. Eventually, this can lead to a broken wire and an open circuit
Are you SURE you didn’t use too much solder? Do you KNOW the solder didn’t flow up the wire?
Back in the day, I thought it wise to reinforce, using solder, the crimp-on connections on my motorcycle wiring. I changed my mind after my headlight went out at night.
So, I’ve had a soldered connection fail from flexing. I’ve never had a crimp-on connection fail from flexing.
It is important that a crimp connection be done correctly. If you can pull it off, it wasn’t done right. And I absolutely do not recommend INSULATED barrel crimp connectors. Those would be the ones with the attractively colored plastic barrels. I do not trust them. I always use non-insulated. They crimp on better.
Oh, yeah. Use the proper crimp tool.
Ed
I attached my feeders adn the circuit breaker interconnections on my last layout with crimp on ring terminals. Being a belts and suspenders sort, I always solder them. I heat the ring end and flow the solder in fromt he back - this helps prevent excess solder from wicking up the wire. Plus you don’t have to keep feeding a ton of solder in, enough to join the metal tot he wire (the ones I use all have the color coded plastic bit over the crimp end, and I don’t melt the plastic). Perhaps in a high vidration situation this may be less than ideal, but there’s just something about relying on crimp on or press on things I don’t like. Case in point, I hate plumbing, but this weekend will be soldering some pipes, because the person who added valves for my washer used one of those stupid press on connectors instead of soldering the copper pipe. ANd - you guessed it, it has a CONSTANT drip. So, off it comes, and on goes a proper soldered fitting - heck I can solder anything electrical so I’m sure I can manage a piece of pipe, plus it was an excuse to play with fire get a torch.
–Randy
One thing that eveyone seems to agree on is the need for the proper crimping tool. Can someone provide me a link to what one of these is? I have a crimping tool but the directions refer to insulated terminals, which I do not plan to use. I don’t know why the tool would be different for insulated vs. non-insulated terminals, but apparently it is.
Thanks,
For generic aftermarket terminals, this one from channel lock works well.
Thanks. I appreciate it.
It’s important when using crimp connectors to use the right tool.
Thomas and Betts makes a crimp tool that is designed to crimp non-insulated barrel connectors in two size ranges: .027"-.053" and .072"-.098". It is model WT111M.
If you are going to use Molex connectors, I recommend getting the appropriate crimp tool, whichever that is. I went to their site to find one, but it’s not exactly user friendly. To me. I am lucky enough to have a real electronics store nearby with people who know things. I would go there to buy the connectors and the appropriate tooling for installation.
By the way, their individual little pins click in place in the white nylon housing. It is handy to have “the special tool” to remove them. If you should want to do that.
Ed
I am not hi jacking your thread but i am fully finishing my control panel at this moment in dc atlas205 and 215connectors 28 points to each and now 28 switches and i am using male female dissconects at the board where needed and do not forget to label everything and account for movement of all wires. if you want more info about my layout check my threads in the last 12 months i am trying to get everything straight with as little hassles i can have. patience is a virtue at this moment for us.