Using mrc tech 4 260 power. Output 23 vdc. Trying to use 1.5 volt incandescent bulbs. I need a diagram an idiot can understand and an updated parts list. Most of these will be on bb athern diesels and some brass steam with asst. can motors. Can anybody please help?
While I can’t answer your question, I can welcome you to the forums!
Thanks, been away from trains for 30 years but since the grandson arrived got back to work. He didn’t take to it but I did! Now it’s out of control. And I’m lovin it. This hobby strikes me as a lot more expensive than it was.And whoever is running the QC department quit years ago.
It would be a ton easier to do it with LED’s, you’d get brighter lights, and the circuitry to support it would be trivial.
I can post or link to some diagrams later. LEDs are easier but I have info on both.
Understand that under load that power pack iscreally only putting out about 16 volts at full throttle.
If you are going to stay with DC you may want to consider a better throttle.
What kind of quality issues have you incountered? With what brands?
Yes the hobby has changed, so have the products. But except for value added products like DCC, the costs are pretty similar when adjusted for inflation.
Sheldon
First will an led fit in the headlight housing of a steam loco? With nothing on the track a voltmeter shows a little over 22 volts wide open. Dcc is out of the question. Quality has been mainly with atlas, very brittle switch machines and turnouts are junk. Please post a diagram and shopping list.
Show me, diagram for an idiot and a shopping list.
Can do, just be patient.
All modern track is more fragile than you might remember from the past because most rai, js zmaller (code 83), molded spikes are more scale size and therefore more fragile.
But once caefully installed it works great. I have been using Atlas code 83 since it came out with no seroius issues.
Sheldon
Typical older power packs have unregulated transformers that under load will provide 14-18 volts at full throttle. With no load on them (the meter, especially a digital one, provides no load and reads the open winding voltage, typically 25% higher than the rated load voltage.
That will have no effect on the lighting circuit.
More later.
Sheldon
Here are a few links:
http://www.trainelectronics.com/LED_Articles_2007/LED_104/index.htm
Poke around this whole website:
http://www.trainelectronics.com/index.htm
And more:
https://forum.trains.com/t/constant-lighting-circuit-dc/245482
And really, if you just search this site or YouTube, there is lots of info out there. As I think of others I will post them.
Sheldon
Thank you, I’ve been poking around for 3 days. Found one recipe and built it. At 3/4 power the diodes started smoking. This forum is my last try.
It helps if you show what you tried that didn’t work. For a truly universal LED solution for DC running, you need a bridge rectifier, a current limiting resistor, and the LED. If you want flicker-free lighting, add a 47uf 35V capacitor after the bridge rectifier.
Why build your own when they are available ready made?
There are/were at least 2 choices.
Miniatronics #CL-013-01 and Utah Pacific #CLU96
Dan
Why build your own when they are available ready made?
There are/were at least 2 choices.
Miniatronics #CL-013-01 and Utah Pacific #CLU96
Well, for one thing, it’s hopeless overkill and pretty large, not to mention a DIY solution cost less than a dollar, not $20-$25!
I don’t think you need a 1A power supply to light an LED!
Same reason I build my own motorcycles instead of going to the harley shop and buying one.If I have to explain you wouldn’t get it.
Let me try this again, I am looking for a simple diagram an IDIOT can follow and a SHOPPING LIST for a constant light on a DC model railroad locomotive.
And when I have minute I will dig out some of the ones I have used and give you a detailed diagram and list. Right now I’m leaving for train night with the guys.
Sheldon
I use this ‘flicker free’ circuit on my DCC passenger cars but I have also tested it with DC power. The main difference here is that with DC the LED will only light in one direction. That might be OK for you if you don’t mind having ‘directional’ headlights.
DCC_light anti-flicker by Edmund, on Flickr
C1 is the capacitor. You can size this to whatever space you have in your engine. For variable DC of course it will not get charged to capacity but it will offer some degree of ‘flicker-free’ smoothing.
D1 is a type of zener diode 1N4148. If not using DCC probably any common diode will work here. R1 is a 100 Ω resistor to reduce inrush current but with DC you don’t really have inrush since you turn the voltage up slowly anyway.
R@ is sized to whatever brightness you want for the LED you’re using. I wouldn’t use incandescent lamps. There are dozens of choices for LEDs out there for headlights in locomotives. I have no idea how this circuit would work with incandescent lamps which are basically a big resistor unlike an LED which is a diode.
Good Luck, Ed
This site has a good circuit and explanation.
Model Railroading - Continuous Brightness Lighting (pollensoftware.com)
Mark
I’ll read it wed. night. Looks like what I need, thank you.