Hello,
this is my first post. I am in the planning stages of building a new layout. This is by no means a hi-rail layout. I will be using the old lionel track. I would like the construction to be simple as well as end up to be relatively quiet.
I was thinking homasote over 1*4 and laying the tack on cork road bed with adding rubber ties. I assume someone still sells these.
Comments appreciated. Hope this is the right place to post.
jh
Welcome! This sounds like a plan - you may find yourself experimenting a bit after construction depending on your definition of ‘relative’ quiet. You’ll also find some good vendors for rubber ties for traditional track in the latest CTT.
Here’s a link to a manufacturer of rubber ties for O or O27 track:
Thanks. Seems like the ties would help.
I have never used homosoate before and have read some conflicting things on this site. Does it need to be supported by plywood or can I put it on the 1*4s? How do I attach the track to it?
Thanks in advance.
dochott,
Homasote will sag with time. So you need a grid (1x4 or 1x2) under it (approx 12 inch centers) or you will need some plywood underlayment to support it.
Just about any self tapping/wood screw will work in the homasote.
dochoot,
I have read to not use homasote directly, but rather to always place it on top of plywood in a roadbed / sub-roadbed combination as Roy suggests. My benchwork is a web / girder framework with 15/32” plywood cut about 1.5” wider than the track with ½” MDF cut to the same width on top of the plywood. I believe that Homasote and MDF are the same thing - just depends on where you live[:)]? The plywood is fixed to the bench work with 1 x 3 cleats with a ½" piece across the top (looks like a “T”). I used a mixture of ¾” and 1” screws to fasten the MDF to the plywood.
I am using a majority of Atlas track with some Lionel tubular. I use the Atlas track screws to fasten the track to the MDF board. Drilled pilot holes first.
I have also heard that MDF is susceptible to warping / swelling due from moisture / humidity in the air. To be safe I put a coat of polyurethane on the MDF before I fastened it to the plywood.
Roy, do you mean to support it with 1*4 braces every 12 inches would work? You guys have to dummy it down for me. I am looking for a flat table top benchwork.
As an aside, the avent of these forums since I was in the hobby is a great resource.
Jeff
Dochoot whats your access going to be like to your train table? If you need to reach further then 30" you may need to get up onto the table to work on your layout. This will require that the table be built much stronger. If this is the case you will need to support your table top with plywood at least 1/2 thick. When in dought build it stronger.
Homasote and MDF are basicly the same but Homasote is I believe a bit softer. As its made from diffrent material (old newspapers) Which means it absorbs so
talk to csxt30 he uses homasote and plywood for his lay-out. good luck with the build.
Jeff,
The 1 x 4 grid should be covered with plywood, 15/32" or 1/2", and then the homosote put on top of that. As was mentioned before depending on the size of the table you may need access holes. I have two for my 8’ by 13’ table. This type of construction may end up a bit noisy as we are sort of making a drum head with the plywood on the grid and then mounted to legs. There are ways around this but then again real trains make noise! [:)]
Jim
Why not use foam insulation board? Lots of the guys here have used it with great success. Easier to find at any building supply place. Maybe Buckeye will drop in and show some of his pictures of faom construction.
Thanks for all of the replies. I am trying not to repeat prior mistakes.
The store by me does carry homasote sheets. I have a pretty large space to work with and I am planning the layout with walkways through it so I will not need to climb around on it so much. That said, I will still take the advice and build it stronger. The plan is to use 1*4 for support anchored to the walls. I will cover with 1/2 inch plywood and add a layer of homasote. The only reason I am using the homasote layer is to deaden the sound which I assume is worth the trouble. I am using tubular track that I will mount on cork with added rubber ties.
While I am at it: My plan is to have a U shaped table with the three sides along walls and the open end facing out into the remainder of the basement. I will have an upper layer of trains cross the opening for a circle. In the middle I will have an island connected with the town in the center. Not sure if this is very clear.
Thanks again.
Sounds like a “solid” plan (yes, pun intended!). I think you will have a better layout with the plywood underlay.
Once thing I noticed is that the MDF is pretty dense – perhaps that is why it is called Multi-DENSITY-Fiberboard. It’s sound deadening qualities were less than I expected. As Nick12DMC pointed out it would seem that the homasote would be a little more sound absorbing than the MDF due to its construction . However, I am happy with my MDF / Plywood track bed.
And as for the noise, it is all good - after all it is a great sound to hear!
See the photos of my benchwork and foam system at: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8ZYtnLVwxj4
Buckeye, Very nice construction, almost looks like it was designed by an engineer. [swg]
As the Chief suggested, I’d seriously consider going with foam on top of a plywood underlayment. I started with homasote and switched to foam for several reasons including ease of use, price, availability, and paintability. Sound deadening appears to be about the same with either product. I can tell you from experience that it’s a lot easier to cut and shape foam for irregularly shaped benchwork than it is for homasote. Also, because the foam is much lighter, your benchwork does not have to be as “sturdy”. Either approach works – it’s really a question of what you are comfortable working with.
Poppyl
And when all the foam was carved, cut, and painted…we had this:
"Homasote and MDF are basicly the same but Homasote is I believe a bit softer."
Homasote and MDF are not the same. Homasote is made from recycled paper and MDF is a type of hardboard, which is made from wood fibres glued under heat.
The pictures of the foam construction are very interesting. I would like to learn more about working with foam. Does anyone have a good reference or is this all self taught? Looks like a great way to do the mountains as well.
I need a roadbed under my tubular track. Does anyone know of a company that sells precut and shaped homasote for this purpose? I thought I heard mention of it.
Thanks!
jh