I used cement, not CA. Be sure and don’t glue the articulation joints or hydraulic rams, axles, etc. Be careful when painting them too, make sure the paint dries before assembling and you may have to scrape some of the paint off at the joints. Take your time and make sure the sub assemblies work before final assembly.
OK joe323 so by now you should realize the part connections marked * on the diagram do NOT get cemented.
Also, if you paint the parts beforehand, as Train Modeler warned you will need to scrape/sand off any paint on piston rod etc that fit into hydraulic cylinders, as Kirbri has very tight tolerances (I learned this the hard way).
To tell the truth, the Pictorial diagrams aren’t really that bad, just keep a sharp eye on parts orientation and the like.
I did not paint mine, mainly due to the reason’s given. Left them the molded color, black,grey and yellow Some detail parts and decals/weathered and that was it. Replaced the plastic axle’s with brass rod and added some more weight,so it wouldn’t tip over, when raised high and everything on my layout, gotta’ roll, if it has wheels.
My favorite plastic glue is MEK (methyl, ethyl, ketone) that you can purchase at Lowes or The Home Depot in quart and gallon containers. The quart is enough glue for a good 5 years. I apply it with a 0.01 needle bottle that you can purchase at a good online hobby store. Be careful with the MEK. Wear gloves when you use it because getting too much on your skin is believed to cause cancer.
If you don’t go that route then good old testor’s glue will work. (Basically, Testors model glue also is MEK with retarders in it.) My advice to you is to put it on with a toothpick instead of straight from the bottle. A big runny glue blob that just got squirted out of the bottle and onto the model can destroy the appearance of the model.
One other suggestion is to test fit the piece you are about to glue before putting the glue on the plastic. A couple of sets of tweezers, a jeweler’s file set,a good hobby knife, and a good set of reamers and modeling drill bits #40 - #80 are good to have along side of you when you begin test fitting parts.