All the electrical code discussion has me wondering if what I did was kosher.
On my last layout I put a grounded plug on the end of a piece of Romex, then daisy chained 4 surface mount outlets around the front of the layout. I mounted the outlets on the front of the web of my L-girders. This was plugged in to a standard wall outlet like an extension cord.
Is this legit? It was handy to have an outlet available close to where I was working so my plan was to do it again on the new layout.
Since it’s attached only to a piece of “custom furniture”, it probably is. If it were attached to be building, it would not be.
I do get the feeling from the description that it may not have been done as well as it should have been. Photos would likely clear that up.
Ed
Sorry, no photos since the layout has been torn down. The Romex was stapled every 12" or less to the rear girder (which was against the wall), then routed 90 degrees out to the outlets on the front and back to the rear for the run to the next outlet. Wires to the outlet came through a 1" hole in the girder and into the back of the box. The outer insulation of the Romex was always intact until it was inside the outlet box. Conductors were stripped just enough to get under the screws of the receptacle - I don’t trust the backstabbers).
I’m interested in whatever suggestions you have for next time.
Is each outlet in an electrical box (metal better than plastic)? Is the Rome’s secured in the outlet box with a box connector? If so you’re good unless that particular circuit is now overloaded. If it is one of the breakers in your house panel will be tripping.
Outlet box and cover
romex connector
I’m noting here that I’m not endorsing what you’re doing.
But.
You should be using romex clamps, as pictured above.
You should be running a ground wire to the metal box, and to the receptacle.
You should be doing everything in “a neat and workmanlike manner”.
Get the book “Wiring Simplified”. Make sure anything you do doesn’t violate the concepts you read about in the book.
The receptacle you’re plugging this assembly into should be a GFI receptacle.
If you do all of that, I guess I can accept it.
Ed
PS: If you’re mounting the boxes onto a surface, don’t use plastic plates, as in the picture above. Use a Raco 864, or equivalent:
I agree with the metal cover plate. also, I’m assuming you know how to install wiring and outlets. As ed points out you need to have proper grounds.
I used these: (box and cover plate were all metal)
They have no provision for clamps, but I did staple the romex immediately behind the box on the back side of the girder. Romex came into the box via the back punchout.
Is that in addition to the ground that’s included in the Romex? I did connect that ground to the green screw on the receptacle. I made a loop in the bare wire and pinched it around the ground screw with needle nose while I tightened the screw. I thought that would work better for the daisy chain than cutting it and trying to put 2 ends under the screw.
Always.
Didn’t think of that. I’ll do that next time.
Thanks.
Regarding the Wiremold item in the photo:
They DO have a provision for a clamp. In the very hole you ran through. Look at the earlier photo of just such a clamp.
Wiremold makes varying depths of those boxes. Be sure to get one deep enough to hold all the wire, wire nuts, and receptacle. That one looks too shallow for my taste.
Regarding the grounding connection:
Best procedure is to have a ground wire attached to the box (there is a provision for a ground screw right there on the backplate) and to the receptacle. Wire nut them to the incoming romex ground.
You NEVER put more than one wire under a screwhead. NEVER! And the wire wraps clockwise. Only.
Be sure and get that book! It is very good at basics. Such as what I just discussed.
Ed
Romex is for inside of walls. It is not meant for surface mounting. You can use wire mold boxes like pictured and the wire mold conduit to protect the wires. Or you can use metal handy boxes and steel flex to protect the wires. The covers can be plastic, that is ok. Protecting the wire is the important thing. Also make sure you have the proper gauge wire which matches the amperage of the circuit breaker: #12 wire for 20 amp breaker. #14 wire for a 15 amp breaker. You can use #12 wire for a 15 amp breaker since the wire is rated for a higher amperage.
Chances are you were never in any danger with the way your romex was before but if it had gotten damaged by a sharp piece of sheet metal or a saw or another tool it could have been a problem.
why? is this required to meet code?
i’m thinking of doing something similar to carl so that I can control power to the layout with one switch.
The clamp wouldn’t fit behind the receptacle. Good reason for a deeper box.
Hello all,
Technically what your are doing is like adding power outlets to a home entertainment center. - -technically!
Practically you are opening yourself up to a fire hazard.
I’ve seen some pretty scary installations similar to your situation.
What is the breaker rated for that you are plugging into- -15A, 20A?
What else is on this circuit?
I understand these are “convenience” outlets. What will you be powering and what is the potential max amperage load?
If this were my project I would:
Or…
An extension cord from the wall to what ever you are using. If you need more outlets you can put a power strip on the end.
Much cheaper and safer.
Hope this helps.
No. The ones I cited are smaller, and hang over the edge less. They often come with rounded corners, so they’re less “pointy”. And, being made of steel, they won’t tend to break. Like plastic.
Another option instead of using the Wiremold boxes is to use regular 4 square boxes, such as a Raco 190:
And then use one of these covers:
They are Raco 902C and 907C, respectively. You’ll get a good amount of room inside, they’re quite sturdy, and the assembly will be 2 1/8" thick–thinner than if you use a switch box.
Ed
No. The outer sheathing of the romex will help protect the wires. And thus you. This is 120V.
Even better would be to use flexible steel conduit. It’s bendy, so it’s easy to install. And it will do a better job of protecting the conductors.
Ed
Still another way to go is with something like Plugmold:
It comes in various lengths, and with or without a plug and cord.
Ed
how? would this be a problem if you use romex?
and how much current at 120V are you likely to draw. A 10A booster supplying 15V is only 150W or 1.25 A at 120V.
by this you mean BX cable? I thought the purpose of BX cable is to protect workers who might be cutting through walls during demolition who might cut through an unintentionally live cable. why would BX be better? it has a limited radius
i was thinking of nailing up some blue plastic electrical boxes on the backside of the L-girders connecter with romex and use a 3-prong power cord from an old microwave to connect to a wall outlet.
Ed, are we assuming it is in a basement? The OP did not sare the layout location with us. I ask regarding the need for a GFCI?
And those rules have “progressed” over the years…
Sheldon
No. Flexible steel conduit looks like big BX, and it comes empty. You add your own wire. BX would probably work too. Or MC.
No. BX is not to protect workers who… It is designed for exposed work. Romex can only be installed exposed if it cannot receive physical damage. Around here, that’s interpreted to mean “hardly ever”.
Get yourself a copy of “Wiring Simplied”. First.
Ed
does this apply to non-house wiring, the topic of this thread?
i’ve wired up a garage, inspected by the town
Sheldon,
My recollection is the layout will be a piece of custom furniture. And that the “furniture” was going to plug into a (perhaps newly installed) GFI receptacle. Not so much because of potential dampness, but more along the lines of it’s a sort of “workshop”. GFI’s are better than not-GFI’s.
I suppose we could get into AFCI’s, too. In fact, I think we should. EVERYONE!!! The GFI receptacle I said to install has turned into this:
Do it!
Also, I’m not gonna be there to supervise the electrical installation. And I don’t know whether it will be done to perfection. Etc. Etc.
I’m approaching this as: they’re gonna do it, anyway. let’s try to make it better.
Ed