Since I am converting to DCC, and I only have one DCC and sound equipped loco, a Proto 2000 U28B (that works fantastic with a Quantum Engineer, I might add…neat toy for DC-ers), I need to upgrade a few other locos. First up is a Proto 1000 F3A and B pair. The instructions tell you how to upgrade, and it looks ridiculously simple, but what decoder? I am really hooked on the sound thing and would like to add sound if not too difficult. Same with another loco, a Proto 2000 S1. The other loco is a Bachmann Spectrum 44 tonner. Is this one even worth upgrading? Again, if so, what decoder? Should I upgrade lights to LEDs while I’m at it? That is a little more involved and involves soldering in resistors, correct? Any and all suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks! Jim
Your Welcome.
Keep in mind that I am recommending decoders that are easy(er) to install and will give you dependable results and good sound quality.
David B
Jim,
[#welcome] to the world of DCC! [:)][tup] Just a couple of things to add to what David has already said.
Your Proto 2000 S1 will need to have the motor isolated from the frame BEFORE you install a decoder in it. Otherwise, the decoder will go poof. And, just in case that may sound daunting to you, here’s a link to Randy (rrinker)'s handy how-to pictorial for doing that:
Decoder install for Proto 2000 S1
Just the first few pictures deal with isolating the motor from the frame. You can choose a different decoder to install than the one Randy used. I think I used a Z-scale decoder in mine and didn’t have to remove any of the frame weight. The above pictorial is several years old. And even Randy has stated that he’d use a different decoder if he were to do it again.
As far as headlights, LEDs are the way to go. They are very directional, put out a strong beam, and won’t deform the shell by overheating. Yes, you’ll have to solder in a resistor but the efforts are well worth it.
For your steam and early diesels, go with the “golden-white” or “Yeloglo” LEDs rather than the regular white LEDs. The golden-white LEDs have a slightly yellowish tint to them, which is very prototypical of headlights of that time period.
Jim, keep us posted on your progress and be sure to post a picture of your first decoder install.
Tom
I PROMISE I will soon get to doing my other one and post pictures of the RIGHT way to put a decoder (and LEDs) in the S-1. The part about the orange wire still stands, but filing the weight to put in a DH163L0 is kind of silly.
–Randy