C: Go to the Kadee website they have all the screws hardware etc. you’ll need.
D: Don’t feel like the Lone Ranger we’ve all done that more times then any of us care to admit.
Little tip I picked up from an old timer. put a nylon stocking over the end of your vacuum cleaner when you do the first pass in your train room. You’ll be amazed at the stuff you’ll find maybe even that coupler pocket screw you just lost.
If no screws,the truck may have a snap fit pin molded to the top of the truck. This pin just presses in place. You can remove the trucks by inserting a thin blade between the truck and the chassis and prying. The truck will pop off.
Alternate. The trucks are secured with a press fit plastic pin rather than a screw. Accurail does this. Same fix, just pry the truck loose.
Some suggestions.
Find the Kadee “what-fits-what” list on their website, or in the big Walthers book. The recommended coupler from the list will be the easiest installation.
Consider converting truck mounted (“talgo”) couplers to body mount. Body mount couplers improve the chances of the car staying on the track in backing moves. They also look more prototypical.
Check the resulting coupler installation for height using a gauge. Trains stay coupled better if all the couplers are at the same height above the railhead.
Hello. I’m assuming since you mentioned truck screws that this is an older Tyco product. Had a couple flatcars that were missing these {they have integral flat washers}. Couldn’t find any so used Athearn trucks and screws. This worked very well. If you have a newer Tyco product {brown box with clear window}, try popping off the talgo trucks and filling the resulting holes with plastic sprue then drilling for screw mounting of replacement trucks such as Athearn or Roundhouse Products. Coupler draft gear from Kadee can then be body mounted. As a last resort but not recommended because of poor tracking, Kadee makes couplers in the 20 series that come with talgo truck adapters. I’ve tried these and though they do work, have had better luck with body mounted couplers, especially with trains of 5 or more cars. Hope this helps.
Quick tip for removing those snap-in trucks: use a small pair of needle nosed pliers. Insert into the two holes at center of truck mounting point. Squeeze and pull.
John, nothing wrong with Tyco conversion after you get a hang of it. I have converted 34 Tyco Old Dutch Hoppers a lone.
First gab the trucks and just yank, they have a split pin that goes into the bottom of the car. I know, I was afraid of breaking something the first time my self.
At this point I would add better wheels, I used Proto 2000 33 inch wheels. This is the only tricky part. You need to use a truck reamer to clean the trucks out so the Protos will fit. Clean out one side, then the other just a little at a time. Install the PK’s, and a test spin. When they spin around 5 seconds or more after you give then a spin you should be good.
Cut of the stock coupler mounting points, I use my rail nippers.
I use Kadee number 5 and the boxes that come with them. I glue the bottom of the pocket to the bottom of the car, make sure it is in the center and as far out as you can go with out hang out from under the car.
Next, I drill a hole in the center of the pockets hole with a 1/8 drill bite. Install the brass spring (if you have not used Kadee’s before,it is the brass pan like pieces) in the pocket.
This what I do different, most here will tell you to use a 2/56 screw, but you need to thread the hole. I use a Walther’s #1 X 1/2 wood screw 947-1197. It is self tapping and I got 24 for $2.49 from LHS. Fits in the center hole, and will self tap in to the 1/18th hole you drilled.
Install the coupler, and screw down the lid. But! You are not done yet.
This picture is just the top of the pocket. See the ears that are one either side? Bottom will have the same ears. You must clip them off! If you do not,in a turn they will hit the front wheels and car w
No, it like taking a Yugo, tinkering with it and kick the smart — person 2009 Vet butt up and down the street with it! [:-^]
When I first in this hobby, I was given a lot of stuff about having Tyco cars and old used Blue Box Athearns. I was told I was wasting my time working on them. I should spend the money and BUY GOOD STUFF and not waste my time on worn out junk.
Way I looked at it, if I bought all new, over time I would ware the new stuff out! So, might as well learn to fix the stuff I bought cheap now, so when the good stuff broke I could fix it.
Case in point, my PCM Y6-b wore out after 200 plus hours.Sent it back to BLI for repairs, they could not fix it and sent it back to me. I took it a part, found the problem and now runs like new.
Nothing wrong with modifying these pieces. Yes, there is so many other great pieces available today, but I have done as Ken mentions many times to allow these cars to operate as well as any others.
Some may not have the $$ to spend or want to run rolling stock that has sentimental value. I had done this to all the rolling stock receive from my late Father-in law. May children were able to use his “stuff” and enjoyed for years.
Some had just the talgo clipped off and kadee boxes mounted, others required more mods by replacing trucks, prueing the holes and drilling for 2-56 truck screws.
Whatever you doe, make sure that you have the coupler height to the recommended specs. Tyco, AHM, Cox and others don"t always have the frame/floor height the same to just “plop” the Kadee box in place. Some shimming and/or using an offset coupler may be needed.
Sure it may be a bit of work, but it can be done. Dependes on your wants, finances, abilities and amount of time you spend to accomplish this.
I got a lot of my grandpa’s freight cars a long time ago, and many of them are Tyco. The way he mounted Kadee couplers was to first cut the truck mounted coupler pocket off. Then he would glue thin sheets of plastic to the frame if needed, and then he would glue the Kadee coupler boxes on. I’ve since started switching the plastic wheels with metal ones. It may not be as clean as screws, but it works.
I converted some Tyco cars several years ago. I used Kadee’s #5 Universal Coupler and they worked just fine. Of course, the couplers were the least of the problems with those cars…
There are actually two ways to do this. First one, is to use Kadee’s #27 (I think!) which has the Talgo adapters. These simply snap onto the stock trucks, after you’ve removed the original coupler. Not ideal, but it does work. The second option, is to snip the coupler mounts off the trucks, and body-mount a Kadee #5. I’ve done it both ways, but I prefer the second method.
