Hi all,
I have been making samples of different techniques for detailed rock faces on the side of a mountain. I have tried styrofoam with plaster cloth and plaster, just styrofoam and the wads wity plaster cloth, yet I have been unsuccessful in bringing out much detail. I was wondering if there were some fool-proof steps that I could use, and also, is cork effective in making rocks?
-Happy Warrior
I haven’t used cork or just foam for a rock face, but I have seen some very nice ones done from foam, though I can;t think of a reason why cork wouldn’t work. I think many of the successful foam ones (but not all) are covered with a thin coat of something like Structolyte/Gypsolyte or other roughing product to take the washes better. So far all the rock faces I have done are in plaster or Sculptamold and I just use washes to color them. Some folks paint the surfaces, then do their washes over them.
Is it the base rock face or the finished rock face you are unhappy with? If it is the base, finish a couple and see how they look. If it is your finished rocks, are you using enough washes of various colors/shades to make them look realistic?
Good luck,
Richard
@cowman It’s the base, when the plaster cloth is dried over the styrofoam that I am unhappy with, and when this rock face is the key focal point of the layout considering its size, I want to get it right.
Thanks,
Happy Warrior
Try some office building acoustic ceiling tiles or some Woodland Scenics rubber molds with plaster of paris, casting plaster or hydrocal.
If you don’t go with the use of casting the rock, rubber rock or other molded rock methods, trying to get a decent looking rock face or cuts/ outcropping is quite difficult with just the plaster cloth itself. The plastercloth willnot show much detail nor will you be able to further cut detail into it w/o cutting through into foam.
A few members just cut and carve the foam itself, minor scuptamold and or ground goop work and painting can really give you those good looking up front rocks faces you’re looking for. I would suggest that you check out Arthill’s work or send him a PM.
I like to do Hydrcal castings and rubber rock for those extremely large cuts. Painted and otherwise unprotected foam just won’t stand up under club enviorment where there may be handling or abuse. Carved foam is fine under other more favorable conditions and private layouts.
I use plaster cloth or plaster paper towels first and then Scuptamold for the final coat with shaping/modeling the rock faces. Here is a couple of areas done tis way. I seal the entidre area with gray latex paint and then use washes. Works for me.
-Bob
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the method, I was just wondering if you could supply some images of the detailing of the sculptamold.
Thanks, Happy Warrior
I don’t have any photos of the actual detailling process but I will say this; using a rubber kitchen spatula ($1 at dollar tree) and a few small dental and clay tools, you can do wonders with Sculptamold. I first pack large spatula full globs onto the hard plaster cloth base and using a few spreading moves you can almost see ‘natural’ rock shapes appear in front of you. This is the time to work the larger masses to the general shape you want. After it has set for about 10 minutes I use the smaller detailing tools to make more defined crevises and will try to make a series of them to form a ’ fault line’ so to speak;; when you step back and look at it you will see a ‘connection’ between several of the larger rock masses. I use photos of actual rock formations and other modelers work on the internet. Just be sure to smooth out any bubbles or ‘stringy’ areas that look like Sculptamold (the fibers that is, duh?). I would practice on an area on your layout and when you are finished and painted with it, you will see areas that you might not like. Just put some more Scuptamold on it and make it better; you will be amazed at how easy this is once you get the hang of it. I originally planned to do it like I always did before; wire window screen with Hydrocal/plaster. Scuptamold has a long working time so you can keep making changes to it. Just jump in and give it a try, it is actually a fun part of scenery.
Good luck,
-Bob