I am looking to use a general base sheet of cork (Home Depot cork roll sheet- 6mm thick) to cover the entire top of my 2.5 ft x 7.5 ft small yard/ service area layout. The plan is to have roadbed for the main line running thru the length of the area and on portions of track off that main line; the rest being track laid directly on the cork sheet (yard/service areas).
1- What is the most effective adhesive for the cork-to-plywood attachment?
2- Should I then also use adhesive on the roadbed-to-cork-sheet areas, or use brad nails thru the cork sheet into the plywood?
hi. i use cork roadbed for all main tracks and taper it down with a surform tool to lay yard tracks directly on the plywood. i have never done cork on cork but i would think that contact cement would work just as well for that as for cork to plywood.
i am using DAP contact cement to attach cork to plywood. the fumes border on recreational chemistry but i have not been able to find acylic contact cement in my area for some time. i once had a borden product called elmers saf-t cement or something like that but used it up and can not find it any more.
main problem with contact cement is you only get one chance. when it becomes tacky, you press the cork down and it stays for good. also, it really builds up and sticks to your fingers and is a fit to get off. kind of like picking you nose with gloves on.
i’m sure you will get other ideas from some of the readers on this forum so consider all of them before you do anything. after all, i am old school and still fasten my flex track down with small nails after pre-drilling the holes through the cork and plywood with a dremel tool.
Any type of flooring adhesive should work fine. (DAP or Henry’s come to mind) You could use that for the roadbed too. (or latex caulk) Some nails to hold it in place will help till the glue dries.
Like loathar said, multipurpose flooring adhesive will hold cork to plywood. Henry makes a good glue and is available at the Depot. Use a 1/16 x 1/16 x 1/16 trowel to apply an even layer of glue. I’m in the flooring business and have installed a few cork floors over the years. Construction adhesive would also work but is better for small applications like road bed. Sheets need a nice even layer of adhesive and it’s tough to get that with a tube of adhesive.
Contact adhesive will also work but as mentioned you get one shot and the fumes can kill or explode.
The Scandinavian guy (name escapes me at the moment) who’s had a couple articles on his UP layout published in MR uses a double layer of cork for roadbed. I’m going to try that on an upcoming HO shelf switcher layout. Not sure about the best adhesive but as mentioned, probably something that you trowel or brush on (Barge cement ?) would be best for sheet cork. I’ve seen small wooden rollers at Michael’s that you could use to roll over the sheet to smooth it down and guarantee a good bond. No idea what the crafty people use them for but I’ve used one when gluing an oversole to the bottom of a pair of shoes with adhesive in a tube. They look like a little wooden paint roller. On my last N-scale shelf, I glued WS sheet roadbed down to foam with Ailene’s (sp?) Tacky Glue from a squeeze bottle. It worked ok but it’s a pain to squeeze out and level for large areas.
Ahhh, a question near and dear to my heart!!! I used sheet cork extensively on my last layout, built in the early '90s. This layout was demo’d early this year and I’m now building a replacement - also using sheet cork for the yard and industrial areas.
The earlier layout used a white glue mix (50/50 water/glue) that was brushed on. The largest single area was about 2x10 feet. I weighted and tacked it down until the glue dried, about 24 or 36 hours to the best of my memory. This worked beautifully, holding solidly for 14 years!!! Not sure that it matters, but after the cork was in place I painted it with grey latex paint.
The layout now under construction is using a different method of adhering cork. I’m using the latex caulk method for the cork roadbed (directly onto plywood) and holding it down with pushpins. This takes about 4 hours to really set. For the sheet cork, I believe I will also use the latex caulk, and spread it on with a flexible spatula. As the glue/water mix could be brushed on, that method is faster. However, the caulk dries much quicker and I suspect will adhere better as well.
Both methods have one thing in common. You can scrap up your “errors” fairly easily, and while you might save some of the cork, do not plan on it.
If you don’t mind, can you give me the Home depot number for that product, or what department in the store you found it? I’ve looked through both of my local HD’s, including the flooring section where I thought it would be, and have not had any luck. And if you ask for it without the HD number, they just look at you funny.
Years ago, sheet cork was readily available at the local HD or Lowes. This year, neither store here (north of Houston) had it. I ended up at Office Max and got three rolls. Office Depot also has it, but the Office Max product was more to my liking.
I used Elmer’s yellow carpenter’s glue. I put an equal amount on the plywood base and an equal amount on the cork sheet (Midland in my case). Well, probably, a bit less on the ply… I use a paint brush to work the glue into the cork which will soak up far more than you can imagine (a cork sponge). I let both tack up for 10-15 minutes and OVER push pin/tack the cork down, using a small rubber mallet and finish off with the harder nylon hammer head. Use lots more push pins than you think is sane (fill every empty space, basically) and you won’t have disappointments later. I used a combination of weight plates (weight lifting set) and push pins or all push pins depending on the size of the area. Let it dry a full 24hrs. and you’ll have to chisel it off! I could have used white glue, but thought with all of the water used in ballasting the yard, it would be safer to use the yellow glue. I then painted the top surface of the cork with a brown latex paint. It was easy, relatively fast, no nasty fumes and permanent. I also use yellow carpenter’s glue for the ribbon cork roadbed. I’ve used Franklin brand (Tite Bond) as well. You’ll have a 20 minutes to half an hr. to work and move things around which is nice. The painting will take some of the sound absorbtion away but most of the sound deadening will come from sound absorbtion materials UNDER the layout-later anyway. I posted a few months ago, asking about all of this and I’ve been very happy with this method. I’ve already tried to chisel off some mistakes and it will come off without TOO much effort, but what you want to stay will stay just fine. Hope this helps you to decide.
One problem I have seen with sheets of cork is that they tend to dry out over time. I have not seen this with cork roadbed but some guys say it happends to it as well. I have used straight yellow carpenters glue when I applied sheet cork to a wall for a friend. In my yards both hidden and visable I mount track directly to 1/2" plywood. I’ve never had a severe noise problem as trains are running at very slow speeds so it’s hardly noticeable.
I have used this same cork from Home Depot on a 4x8 layout. The best practice, per earlier comments, is to trowel on floor adhesive. Other wise the cork will bubble up and separate from the wood when paint is later applied. Trust me on this, I used yellow glue first then painted the cork. I had a rippling surface. Removed the cork, then applied floor adhesive with a trowel per instructions. The cork did not separate one bit.
My entire layout is cork-to-plywood laid with Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Glue. It’s cheap, easy to find at any hardware store, completely fumeless and easy to clean up if you spill. Best of all it holds like iron and is very easy to use.
I agree, Elmer’s White Glue. I picked Elmers for the above reasons, but there were other considerations I took in. I am planning on using alot of cork, therefore cost seemed to be an important factor. But what I found out was, Elmers plain ol’ ‘white glue’ has been improved. If you actually look for Elmer’s Glue-All (regular Elmer’s not wood glue) on the bottom right of the label, it says “New Stronger Formula”
Now I’m sure someone out there is saying… “Whats wrong with Elmer’s Wood Glue ?” Nothing, maybe a few more cents. But here’s what happened to me. As I was laying down cork, I had extra, well being somewhat ‘thrifty’ I whiped off the glue and just laid it down. The next day … “Ot oh~”
I tried to pry it off… “Gheesh” I couldn’t believe it. I had to go take a pic. If you look closely you’ll see the glue is stronger than the cork. It pulled cork off. The seam/joint of cork never came lose, and thats after I had whiped off the glue so I could re-use the roadbed again some where else.
Now your question was regarding Cork to Wood. Maybe Elmer’s wood glue is fine for that. I know this… when you start to glue down the cork. Just remember to give the cork two coats.
That first coat of glue is a thin one… but its best if you really rub it into the cork. Not on the cork, INTO the cork. Once done, apply the second coat. And being you are gluing cork to wood, I would probably apply a coat of glue to the wood. Apply cork to wood. If for some reason a smal are
I’d go with the contact cement. While there are water-based versions available, I like the gelled type, which is easy to apply with a suitably-sized disposable brush. Lay the cork sheet over the area where you want it, and draw a pencil line(s) along the edge where you’re going to start. If necessary, add a couple of alignment marks on the edges of both the cork and the plywood that adjoins the area where the cork will be applied. Brush the cement onto both the plywood and the cork, and allow to dry for at least the time noted in the on-can instructions. If it soaks into the plywood or cork too much, add a second coat after the first has dried.
Next, with the glued-side facing down, roll up the cork, starting at the end opposite to the one from which you wish to start. This leaves the end with the alignment marks first-off the roll. Line up the marks, press the starting edge of the cork into place and then, by pressing on the already-in-place cork and working forward, unroll the sheet. If you work carefully, you’ll have no trapped air bubbles and can continue on immediately, with no waiting for drying time and no worry that the cork will ever lift.
I save those fake credit cards of plasticized paper that you get in your junk mail to spread adhesive with (both adhesive caulk and yellow carpenter’s glue). They make great disposable spreaders.
If you don’t have any of those fake credit cards around, a 3"x3" piece of cereal box folded in half over a sharp corner (I use the kitchen counter) works pretty well. Spread with the end with the crease in it. Cereal boxes have a waxy coating that keeps stuff from sticking too much. A paper milk carton works even better, but I haven’t had one of those in a long time.
You can also use a putty knife, but then you have to make sure you get the gunk off of it before it dries.
