Correct Wiring For 1121C Remote

Classic Toy Trains Forum
1

I just received a pair of used switches & 1121C remote control. The remote doesn’t operate the switches correctly.

Current wiring with the wires facing me and the light bulb away is:

  1. Each center wire goes to the contact behind each SPDT (by the light bulb).

  2. Each outside wire goes to one of the contacts in front of each SPDT.

  3. Each inside wire goes to the contact between the contacts above.

  4. Another wire goes from the front contact on the left SPDT to the light bulb.

With this arrangement, moving the SPDT on the left backwards operates a switch in only one direction and lights the light bulb. Moving the SPDT on the right backwards operates a switch in only one direction with no light. Flipping the wires at the switch operates switch in oposite direction. Moving the SPDT’s forward does nothing.

This is the only set of 1121 switches and controller I have, so have nothing to compare. Can you tell me how these should be wired?

Also, on the right hand switch, you can move the frog manually. Not so on the left hand switch.

Thanks,

Charlie

2

You might have an 1122 controller, which I believe looks like an 1121 controller, but with the wires connected differently. Just be sure that you connect the wire in each cable that comes from the center part of the controller switch, to the center terminal on the turnout. Then swap the other two wires to get the turnout to throw in the direction that you expect.

3

I’m pretty sure it’s an 1121C; it looks like what is described in the How to Operate No. 1121 Switches manual that came with the switches and controller. It has the links & shutters connected to the SP levers.

Anyway, I think the problem is in how the controller is wired internally. I hook the center wire up to the center terminal on the turnout as you suggest. But the SPDT only works one way. In effect, one side of the DTs don’t work. When I flip the wiring as you suggest, the turnout throws the other way, but only on the same side of the DT as before.

This applies to both of the SPDTs; only one side activates the turnouts.

It seems that the outside wires should tie to each side of the SPDT. The center wires should go somewhere else, maybe the common post between the two SPDTs. Then other wires should go to the light bulb from somewhere. Right?

Charlie

4

Connect the wire in each cable that comes from the center part of the controller switch, which is not the wire in the center of the cable, to the center terminal on the turnout.

The two controllers look the same. They use the same cover assembly.

There are actually only 6 ways to connect a 3-wire cable to 3 terminals; and 2 of those ways will operate the turnout. If all else fails, you could use trial and error.

5

Okay, you are right[bow] The instructions I got for 1121 switches & 1121C controller say to hook the center wire of each cable to the center binding post on the switch box.

Not so for the controller I received. Your wiring works*.*

Thanks, Bob

Charlie

6

The reason you are having so much trouble is that the center wire from the controller does not go to the center terminal on the switch. The center wire from the controller goes to the terminal that is attached to the metal plate. The other two wires go to the other terminals. You can determine which way they go by trial and error. You can test this easily enough by powering the switch and just shorting the terminals together with a short piece of wire.

I just took one of my 1122 switches apart to verify this. I think the 1122C is wired the same. You can’t damage anything by shorting the terminals together.

7

True for 1122/1122E switches, but he has the 1121 remote switches.

The center post on the switch is the common on the 1121, and as you point out, the post closest to the motor housing is the common on the 1122/1122E.

Rob