I am using Atlas N scale code 55 for the first time. I have always used the code 80 with the standard atlas switch machines. On this permanent layout I want to make my turnouts more prototypical, so this means under the table switch machines. I am operating with Prodigy Express DCC, which I love even though it doesn’t support turnout control. My layout base is 2 3/4 inch total thickness, 1/2 plywood and 2 1/4 foam board. I would like to utilize a panel with toggle switches that would also work my position indicator signals.
Which switch machine would be best to use, that supports the signal indication also?
Another question, does anyone have any tips on soldering feeder drop wires to the small N code 55 rail, or should I use rail joiners with the feeder drop wire already attached?
Switch machines would probably be the Tortoise (made by Circuitron), though you’ll probably need to make new throwbars out of music wire, as I recall the factory-supplied ones being rather short. Granted this is second-hand info from talking with the LHS owner (and forum goers, etc) → I unfortunately didn’t get to the point where I was installing switch machines [:(].
If you don’t mind MANUAL turnout throws, the Bullfrog (made by the Fast Tracks people) seems pretty nice. That said, I haven’t used them before, so am relying on other people’s reviews (mainly from what I’ve seen on the forums here).
Yeah, I’ve got all of my piano wire and what other hardware I need to install quite a few machines. I just wanted to get some input being as I’ve never used under table switching, just bulky unprototypical atlas machines. I was going to go with the Atlas under table deluxe machine, but after reading reviews i changed my mind. Everyone has pointed to Circuitron so, that has made up my mind. I definitely will be using remote switching, I’ve always had a thing for not wanting to hand work anything on my layout while I’m operating.
About the soldering, I’m using 26 awg phone wire for my drop feeders. I will switch to a lower power soldering iron, I was trying to use my radio shack butane iron set to very minimum, but the radiant heat melted my ties.
thanks a bushel for the input, definitely helped me out
Tortoise machines will do the job, and yes, you will need a longer wire. It’s not a big deal. I bought “music wire” or “piano wire” from a hardware store for a few dollars. Tortoises also have the contacts for signalling and power frogs built in. They are, however, the most expensive option if that’s an issue.
To cut the music wire, make sure you’ve got a good, heavy-duty pair of wire cutters or lineman pliers. The small clippers we use for most of our MR work, as they say, “won’t cut it.”
I use a lot of code 55 rail for secondary tracks in HO. At most rail joints, I use wood ties under the joiners, and solder feeders in the same location (no melting ties, and no vertical misalignment problems). I shape the top of the feeder like a spike, and solder either against the top of the base of the rail or against the joiner itself. Clean up the finished solder joint with a file and you’re set.
2 options on soldering: solder to rails, or solder a feeder to bottom of rail joiners. My friend uses code 55 in N scale. He uses both rail joiners and feeders soldered to the rail. He has a soldering jig he places on the rail to absorb some of the heat so the ties won’t melt. I don’t know where he got it from. Check out Walthers.He also uses Tortoise machines. Hope this helps. Joe