Hello Everyone,
I am working on assembling a few of my HO scale Funero & Camerlango and Sunshine Kits, and I am wondering what type of coupler boxes to use. My fleet is all Bachmann Center Shank Medium E-Z Mate Couplers. I was thinking about the Kadee #242. I am open to all and any suggestions and comments.
-Alex
Kadee includes coupler boxes with their #5 coupler packages.
Thank you. Does anyone have expirence with the Kadee 242 ?
Yes, nothing negative to report.[tup]
Cheers, the Bear.[:)]
Just checked Kadee’s site & did not find a 242 listed. What is it?
Tom
Hi Alex:
I have installed #242s. I prefer them to the #232s which come with #5 couplers because the #242 coupler box is a bit simpler to assemble than the #232. The #242 snaps together whereas the #232 has to be glued to hold it together while you are installing. What the #242 lacks are the screw holes on either side of the coupler box that can be used to mount it. Lots of people cut the screw projections off and just use the center screw to hold the coupler in place.
I’m not sure if having the side screw holes would be advantageous for mounting in your case or not, but I suspect they would be unnecessary. In fact, I’m guessing that’s why you are asking about the #242s.
Both coupler boxes will hold your couplers properly.
I would suggest buying a single package of the #242s to experiment with.
Dave
Tom:
The #242 is the stock number for the coupler box only - no coupler. They are listed under ‘Draft Gear Boxes’ and not with the couplers.
Dave
Gotcha! Thanks, Dave. I’ve used them too. I generally use the"scale" heads and have found no problem with them. However, Alex, your layout has pretty tight curves, so I think you should use the standard (#5 et. al.) heads. They work better on tighter radius, IMO.
Your plan is to use the Bachmann couplers in the Kadee 242 coupler boxes? It should work, but I really do not have much faith in those plastic ‘clones’ with the ‘living’ knuckle spring. I hope what you are using is the ones with the real coil spring on the outside of the knuckle. The EZ Mate Mark II couplers have a real coil spring.
We have banned all of the original EZ Mate, McHenry(Athearn) clones from the club railroad. They fail all of the time. The plastic spring takes a ‘set’ or just fails with any hard slack action. Several of us have bought discounted ‘bulk’ packs of Kadee ‘Whisker’ couplers and sell them at cost to members. We also have done the same thing with plastic wheels - Our standard is metal wheels(less tracking of ‘gunk’ on the rail). One can by a bulk pack(100 wheel sets) of I-M metal wheels for $50-60 per box. There is 10 bags in each box(with 10 wheel sets in each bag). I usually have a supply of Kadee 148 ‘whisker’ couplers, and a couple of bags of I-M 33" and 36" wheels in my tool chest that goes to the club.
Jim
Jim hit the nail on the head on all points. I second that on the plastic EZ-Mates- been there, done that. Yes they do fail, and they all start failing at the same time. Kadee 148’s here for replacements!
And yes, the 242 boxes work nice. They can be glued in place if you so desire, and the cover snaps on, or as mentioned you can use the center screw. I tend to use a tiny dab of cement on the box along with a screw, but not enough I can’t get it loose in the future if the need arises.
Happy RR’ing!
Duane
Kadee #5 couplers, they come with draft gear if you buy them by the 2 pair pack. Secure them to the car with a 2-56 screw thru the center hole. I don’t believe in glueing coupler boxes or their lids, you always need to take things apart later to repair or replace damaged couplers. Use a #50 drill to make a hole for the 2-56 screw. Either a self tapping or a plain machine screw will work fine. If the couplers come out low, slip a pair of #6 flat washers under the trucks.
The “scale” Kadees have smaller heads than the standard #5. The claim is, they look better. In actual fact they make greater demands upon your track work and you coupler height adjustments to prevent random uncoupling.
The “whisker” couplers claim to be easier to install. I never had any trouble dropping the bronze spring thing inplace during a #5 installation.
Thank you all for the plethora of info. I am thinking about the Kadee 5, because my layout does have sharp curves (18’’ Radius, throughtout layout). I will probably try them. What type of screw do you all use for the coupler boxes. I read somewhere that 2-56 will work and the Kadee makes a 2-56 in plastic that can be cut to length. Plus will Bachmann couplers fit in a Kadee 5 coupler box.
-Alex
Just saw your post David, glad to see that I was correct in thinking that the 2-56 screws will work. Now the final question is: Will Bachmann couplers work in the Kadee 5 coupler box?
-Alex
Not sure whether the Bachmann couplers will fit in the Kadee box. They probably will, but I recommend changing your standard to Kadee because I believe they’re more durable. You can do this gradually, a couple cars at a time.
Tom
Just checked the size of the hole in a Kadee coupler and a Bachmann coupler. Exact same size. Looks like I’m off to start shopping. To close, just a big thank you to all that helped me with this process.
-Alex
As to the screw projections on the sides of the coupler box believe many brass engines had factory screw holes in their coupler pads that were used for.