trying to mount a front coupler on a 2-8-0 engine with foot plates(?), no cow catcher. The foot plates are split like on the back of a tender. Can the coupler simple clear the draft(?) gear box (molded into the engine), or will the foot plates interfere some how and the coupler needs to extend out further, at least partially past the foot plates?
greg,
It needs enough “neck” showing on the drawbar to swing from side to side on curves. If the coupler head is back against the box, there may not be enough swing. If you have sharp curves, that could be an issue, if they’re wide curves, not so much.
The tighter your curves the longer the shank will have to be. Even then some can cause problems if they can’t swing enough.
Have you checked the Kadee web site? They have conversion charts for most locos, with instructions on modifications you may need to make.
Good luck,
Richard
it see that the foot plates are irrelevant but it seems that the coupler length may be an issue with all my locos and cars.
I see that a kadee long shank (#156) adds 3/32", but there’s no conversion listed for my Gem 2-8-0.
thanks
Yeah, you’re on your own with a gem like that old Gem 2-8-0.
Since it’s brass, you should also be aware that using one of their insulated coupler options is a good idea if you ever plan to doublehead this loco. Otherwise, it’s possible you could create a short condition if you hook it up to another engine with uninsulated couplers.
The following link shows how Kadee offers both insulated and uninsulated couplers in the various HO sizes.