I was wondering what is the best way to level the couplers when the boxes are the problem? I have a couple cars that are level but the couplers don’t couple. The bottom of one coupler barely touches the top of the other coupler but when I couple them to other cars they couple just fine.
ICMR
Kadee makes special couplers that change the coupler height . Read this, it shows how they work.http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page44.htm
ICRM,
It is helpful to keep the various 20 or 30 series couplers on hand just for solving coupler height problems. Find out with the Kadee height gauge which one is correct, then change the other w/ overset or underset. minor adjustments can be made by adding shims to lower, if the box is removable. Many times, I have removed a cast on box and mounted a Kadee #5. Kadee website gives the proper dimensions for box height/ floor and coupler centerline(knuckle) to top rail of 25/64ths.
The chart that comes w/ any 30 series coupler has been my guideline to any coupler problem.
You may also find that most BB Athearn kits will have the couplers low. The easy fix for this is to add red fiber washers(Kadee) to the truck bolsters. Some will find other fixes due to the raised height overall of the car. Doesn’t bother me- it is very slight.
Body mounting of coupler boxes to BB Athearn engines is recommended, especially if pilot detailing is done. This solved problems of isolating the coupler from the frame as well as not having to romove added plows an/or footboards. Again shimming the #5 box w/ stryrene to the proper measurement for coupler height.
Bob K.
Don’t forget your www.kadee.com/htmbord/page120.htm
www.kadee.com/htmbord/page160.htm
Handy tools to have around.
Both KD and McHenry have couplers with different off set heads.This is way easier than raising or lowering the box.
Your problem is a low coupler.This is a easy fix problem WITHOUT the need to buy another set of couplers.All you need is a pack of KD washers.This will raise the low coupler to the correct height and allows you to have a uniform style of coupler just like the prototype…While you pick up a pack of washers pick up a KD coupler hight gauge.
There’s a simple (and cheap) solution to the Athearn BB low cplr ht. Shave off the the bolster pin on the frame of the car and then remove the little lip on the top (flat) half of the KD box and cement it (the flat pice w/ the then cplr but now truck pivot pin) in place of the removed bolster pin. Should put the cplr ht dead on and you weren"t going to use the KD box anyway.
Thank you everyone. I think you guys solved my problem.
Thanks again.
ICMR
Why go through all that hassle when a KD washer will do the trick in 30 seconds?Sorry,I am confused why anybody would go through all of that.[:D]
Thanks for the ideas to. I was wandering the same thing.
( So many railroads so little time.)
And don’t forget the 40 series of couplers. They have all the short/long shank, over/under set options of the 20s and 30s but the same box and use the same spring as the #5. They have been around for a few years but no one seems to know about them.
Now Kadee, listen up, make a 50 series that has all the size options as the 40’s but with the #58 size knuckle!
Thanks again for the help.
ICMR
Hello everyone,
First, thanks to those that have helped “ICMR” with his question about correcting coupler heights, you have touched on most of the basic methods.
Each model manufacturer has different ways of making their models, different quality controls, and certainly different aspects concerning correct coupler heights and what they expect modelers to do about it. Some care a great deal about a quality coupler mounting and the correct coupler height and we as well as most modelers appreciate this a great deal. However, there are manufacturers that could care less or do not have the budgets to care enough about couplers and these are the ones that bring the most challenges for us and the modelers. There are makers that have come a very long way to accommodate the modelers with good consistent coupler pockets and mountings and we thank them.
With this in mind you should understand that the coupler heights can be quite different from one model to the next, even models from the same run can be different. So each individual model needs to be checked for the correct coupler height, function, and clearance using the NMRA or the Kadee #205 coupler height gauges.
Each of our “offset” couplers are .050" higher or lower than our center set couplers. So a coupler needing only .020" of adjustment will need other alterations, shims, thin washers, or what ever the model requires.
“Texas Zepher”, we are planning the long and short shank versions of the #58 coupler, however, we do not like the looks of an offset #58 head with the shank at the top or bottom which makes the nice detailed head look really bad. So at this point we are not going to make the “offset” #58 couplers.
Sam Clarke
Kadee Quality Products
I prefer fixing the root of the problem, rather than stocking every coupler Kadee makes (I only use #58s). Most cars that have a height issue have one of two problems: the underframe bolster or the truck frame bearing surface. It takes only a few seconds (and no extra dollars) to shave or build up bolsters or bearings to get the car to the proper height, and occassionally adding material under the Kadee couopler box CAN also help fix height problems.
[#welcome]Hi Sam, great to see manufacturers on the forum!
I agree with your take on the offset #58’s! If you’re going to the effort to use “Scale” couplers, why detract from that with offset shanks?
TTYL
Rotor
Yes, I didn’t think of that. It would look a bit strange. Perhaps an out of the box thought - could the shank come off from the center of the head and then jog up or down?
Texas Zepher, you asked:
Unfortunately, there is not enough shank length to that with and keep it short enough. The hook or step down (or up) would hit the edge of the draft gear box when the coupler pivoted. Also, the actual mold would be a little more complicated to make.
Sam Clarke
Kadee Quality Products
Not that we would want to copy it, but does anyone have photos they can post showing examples of mismatched couplers on the prototypes ?
Bob
NMRA Life 0543
This should probably be a new thread, but since Sam has been hanging out here, I’ll ask my question.
Regarding the KD #58’s, I’ve committed to upgrade my rolling stock using 58’s. For many cars, especially Athearns that have the coupler box built in, all I need is the coupler and centering spring. How close are we to seeing bulk packs of #58’s? Anyone else interested? Maybe if there is a market here, we’ll see them at the LHS.
Thanks,
Ort007
They’ve already announced it, but only recently: It’s the “#12 #58 Bulk Pack (20 pair)”. 20 pair of #58 couplers, with centering springs.