Will someone share their knowledge of coupler pins? Is there a “good-better-best” position for the pins of cars which are coupled? Is there a position which facilitates coupling? Anything?
Ron B.
The prototype uses lift pins and have nothing to do about positioning.except the couplers have to be aligned to couple.
The model couplers like Kadee use the magnetic trip pin, which simulates the air hose between cars. Instead, magnetic uncouplers pull the knuckels open to uncouple. Kadee uncouplers are magnetized crosswise across the track, not parrallel to the rails, the magnetic pull draws the metal uncoupler pin outwards to the edge of the track to pull the knuckle open.
So the “Pin” should be slightly angled from coupler towards the rails clockwise if looked from top down.
It shouldnt be parallel to the rails.
BTW Kadee couplers have self cenering springs to center the coupler to ready for coupling.
For cars to be coupled correctly, they have to be at the same height, and kadee sells a coupler height gauge just for that.
Otherwise slight grades the couplers will slide off their coupling and separate.
As well as differential pressure may make coupler pairs drag up/down and slide off anyways also on level track or on heavy trains or on grades.
hope this helps to answer questions.
The pins should be bent so that they hang above the rails – it should clear a piece of stiff paper put over the rails. (The instructions give a precise measurement.) There are at least two makes of trip pin adjusters. The pins need to be high enough that they don’t catch on rails at switches and crossings.
Ron,
Just a quick comment on Kadee coupler pins. I always adjust mine before installing them by bending them slightly so that the end of the pin is just a fraction of an inch above the lowest point of the pin. As the couplers come from Kadee, they are always below the rail height and would catch on everything. I found that if I adjusted them as Kadee recommends, over time they sag just enough to hang up, causing derailments. Idecided to fix it permanently by establishing my own personal standard where I “close the arc” of the pin just ever so slightly so the end curves up. This way, even if the coupler sags a tiny bit, the pin will ride over the railhead or whatever. I have not noticed decreased performance in uncoupling because the pins aren’t dragging the tops of the rails. They are still very close to the railhead, but not 1/32nd of an inch, as Kadee recommends.
Mark C.
I like this! I’m not too old to learn, yet. I’ll give it a go!