I have an Atheran Genesis F7 A-B set and the rear coupler box on the A unit is damaged and both front and rear coupler boxes are damaged on the B unit.
Of interest I looked on the parts sheet which came with both units and got the number of the coupler boxes but Atheran doesn’t give the part number for the couplers because they say that’s a Bachmann part.
I can’t understand why they can’t give the coupler part number but they claim that the coupler isn’t their product and don’t include the part number so the customer has to guess. I called then at they told me the B unit has a short shank. both ends and the A unit has a front medium shank and rear a short shank.
That said I ordered the coupler boxes from them and it will proberly take a month and a Sunday to get the parts.
Can anyone suggest what other coupler boxes I could use?
Got a good one for ya!! These are great looking and very reliable Kadee # 78 a scale coupler, they come assembled with a draft gear box. An excellent choice.
Yes, Kadee all the way. The couplers are far better than any originals I’ve found, unless the manufacturer uses Kadees. I installed Kadees in some 60’s vintage Athearn F-7’s. I used #5’s in the rear of each engine, and the long-shank version for the front. (Sorry, I can’t find the envelope they came in.) All of these fit very nicely in the draft gear boxes that Kadee sells. For my ancient relics, I had to grind an eighth of an inch off the frame to get the couplers to line up, which makes me wonder how they ever worked before. Now, though, as I back up to a freight, I can almost hear the clanking as they engage.
THE GENESIS F-7 coupler’s may be Bachmann but are plastic and easily damamaged. The coupler box and lid is held to the frame with a 2-56 screw. Simple to replace it…
DO YOURSELF A FAVOR, use Kaydee replacement’s, sometimes referred to as ‘KD’… or, you can wait for Athearn to supply you with yet another imitation’ for free.
Use KD #28. Put the flat spring and coupler against the metal pad of the frame, place the 20 box OVER it, insert the screw and tighten carefully keeping the coupler and box aligned with the front opening. The rear pad is even simpler. If you want to keep the 'close coupling , use #23’s on the rear of the ‘A’ and both end’s of the ‘B’. My ABBA consist uses #28/23’s… Note the front of the 'A’s requirement is longer. IF you have a 4X8, use #26 and #28’s for the tighter curves.
Thanks everyone for your quick reply. This is my first time at doing anything like this. These parts are so small I had to get a magnifying glasses to really see the parts.
I hear the KD couplers are really hard to deal with…springs and all. Has this change at all in the past few years?
The little coil springs on the coupler knuckles are indeed hard to deal with. I’ve yet to get one back on, but the little Kadee tool for doing this is on order, so I’ll try again. Other than that, though, they aren’t bad at all. Fortunately, the little springs are pre-installed, so unless one comes off you don’t have to deal with them.
I’ve been converting my entire old fleet of horn-hooks to Kadee #5’s. I find that the more of them I do, the easier it gets.
When putting Kadee knuckle springs back on, run a length of thread through the spring (get it in the middle of about 2 feet). Pick it up near one end with a knife blade.* Slip on one end, then the other.* Flip the knuckle to check that it’s seated. Remove the thread.
At the points marked *, find the spring and start over. The thread will keep it where you can find it.
The Kadee coupler springs are very fragile and easily damaged. After several frustrating tries with tweezers and an Xacto blade held in my trembling fingers, leading to spoiled springs, I decided to pick up a spring using a wet forefinger and slide it off the finger, one end into place first then the other. My finger tip gently padded the spring as I pushed it into place. Success! The only other tool required - a visor magnifier!
I really like the idea with the thread. In the past when ever I lost a spring I throught away the copler, what a waste of money. What do you mean by the * , some sort of comment. Sorry I don’t understand.
So I guess that’s why I’ve settled for a second best solution with other coupler brands. Furthermore KD has always confused by soley bu the number of couplers they have.
Howard - you can buy the springs separately from Kadee. Either that, or you can come over to my house and get down on your hands and knees in my office, and search the carpet. There are a half-dozen springs in there somewhere.
Since Kadee includes two spare springs in each No. 5 package, save these spares in a clearly identified transparent pill bottle immediately on opening the envelope. Over time you’ll accumulate springs at a rate that should exceed your loss rate [:D]
The idea of using a piece of thread also works if you ever work with anything that uses “E” clips (known in the trade as “jesus clips”. One loop around the clip, while you snap it in place. If it tries to fly, it won’t get far, and you can reel it back in…