I just purchased a couple of cars this weekend at a show this weekend and pushed them along the track. I noticed that they long curved horn part was getting hung up in the switches. The plastic part that holds the coupler seems to be bent downward a tad and I am afraid to bend it back up for fear of snapping. Any suggestions? I have not purchased a power pack yet but have purchased a few cars and car kits along with a couple of engines. they all seem to have different couplers, the Proto that I bought has magnetic one. Which ones would you all recommend that I start converting to since I am buying different cars and such getting ready for the first start up.
The standard of the hobby industry is the Ka-dee, Micro-Trains coupling system. (Ka-dee is HO scale, Micro-Trains is N scale.) They are available for scales other than HO and N.
There are other manufacturers of coupler systems, and most of these systems work well. Unfortunately, the different manufacturers products don’t work well with each other. They may couple but can’t uncouple without help, etc.
Do some research and decide on what system you want to use. Internet searches will get you a lot on information in a hurry, books and magazines are always good for references.
I forgot to address your original problem, the hanging couplers.
Most hobby couplers (your’s sound like HO) are made of a tough plastic that can withstand some pretty rough handling. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers and see if you can bend the shank of the coupler up a bit to get it to clear the turnouts. You should be able to bend them without breaking them. If they break, replacements can be found, but you’re considering changing them anyway, so go ahead and experiment!
Welcome to the world’s greatest hobby. As with most hobbies there are a few tools/accesories that will make it more enjoyable. Most cars and kits now come with some form of knuckle coupler (with a curved pin extending down that’s activated by a magnet between the rails or under the track). These will mostly work w/ one another. There is an older style that’s cast in one solid piece that might be on cars you buy second hand. These should be replaced w/ KDs, an all metal knuckle style that is the one most used in almost all scales. You will also need a coupler hieght gauge and coupler trip pin tool, both available at a local hobby shop that caters to model railroaders (this is also a great source of information on any aspect of the hobby). With these two items you can install and adjust your couplers for optimum operation.
The problem your experiencing (FINALLY!) is from either couplers that are installed too low or a trip pin (the curved goody extending from the bottom of the coupler) that needs to be adjusted.
Kaydee makes a special tool for bending the hooks. It is wonderful. They also make a special gauge that helps you set the coupler and hook at the perfect height. If you are serious about couplers and have more then a few cars, the sooner you get these, the happier you will be. No I don’t work for Kaydee and I am cost conscious. They just work well.
dgwinup: The standard of the hobby industry is kd??? when did this happen? I’m sure the other coupler manufacturers will be glad to hear of this. Are there other “standards” that we are not aware of? such as track, locomotives, buildings, switches, etc. this seems all new to me.
Don’t bend teh couplers just yet. First you have to fix the problem.
The root cause of the problem is that the “plastice part that holds the coupler seems to be bent downward”.
Is the cover for the coupler box loose?
Is the underframe bent?
Is the screw that holds the coupler box loose?
Any of those could cause the box to hang down. Fix that and you might fix your problem entirely. If the coupler is hanging down then you most likely have a coupler mismatch when you couple up. That will cause you trouble later. It may take replacing the coupler box.
There are two basic types of HO couplers, the “horn hook” type that comes with ready to run models and the knuckle type that are becoming more common as factory supplied equipment. “Serious” modelers prefer the knuckle type couplers. The most popular brand is Kadee. Look up their website for all the different types of couplers. Both they and Micromark (the hobby tool company) sell coupler gauges. A coupler gauge is very useful to make sure everything is set right.
Sounds like horn-hook couplers to me. I have a number of older cars that experience the same problem. Since I’m going to convert to knuckle couplers at some point, I just snipped off the end of horn. Fixed the problem. Seems like the older Tyco and AHM cars have this problem.
I believe he means “ad-hoc standard.” So many serious modellers over the years have converted their equipment to the Kadee brand that they are considered a standard. To be a true standard, they would have to be adopted by the NMRA or similar organization. The reason that the Kadee’s weren’t adopted as a standard back in the '60’s were that the Kadee Company wouldn’t release the patent, so they would be the only manufacturer. The NMRA in all fairness couldn’t do this. As an aside, the NMRA never did adopt a standard coupler. The X2F type has been erroniously called the “NMRA standard coupler” for years.
Actually, I believe he should have referred to “knuckle couplers” instead of a particular brand name. It would probably be fair to consider knuckle couplers as a whole to be an “ad-hoc standard”, since most of the rolling stock on the market today that includes couplers, comes with some variation of knuckle coupler. (The exception, of course, is usually the low-end, toylike stuff that still has horn-hook (X2F) couplers.) But most of them that come with knuckle couplers, that I’ve seen anyway, come with other brands and not Kadee’s.
P.S. I have a mix of Kadee’s, McHenry, (both KS and their original “finger”), AccuMate, and heaven only know who else’s, and I’ve never had any compatability problems as long as the coupler is in good shape and has been installed properly - Correct height, trip pin height, free range of travel, etc.
Steve
Edit: I’m referring to HO scale only., since the post in question mentioned “kd’s”.
Correct. My general experience is that Athearn BB box cars require 1 washer on each truck and the Gondolas and flat cars require 2 each.
Also correct…
Incorrect… One of the purposes of the coupler height gauge is to make sure the trip pin is set at the proper height… There is a tab on the bottom of the gauge that the pin should Just slide over when properly adjusted. Set your coupler height with the washers and shims first and then the trip pin. If you are going to put the Kadee type couplers on all your cars, invest the $12 or $13 (whatever they are now) into the Kadee coupler pin adjustment pliers… I think Micromark sells a similar tool…