Since it seems that just about all kits and R-T-R models come with a much better coupler then the old “horn hook” style, do many people still replace the coupler that comes in the box with a Kadee coupler.
Jim
Nothing runs on my layout unless it’s equipped with ah Kadee coupler (I’m standardizing on the new semi-scale 58/78 series, but I still have a few 5’s running around). I tried EVERY plastic coupler that’s come out, up to two years ago when I made the decision to stay with the 58. Plastic couplers are cheap…and you get what you pay for. They break, they stretch, they warp, tey don’t work as well as Kadees, and they’re not as good with taking a blow to the head. The Accurail couplers are solid and work well, but don’t like to couple to Kadees. Kadee also has the largest line of couplers available, meaning that you can solve any strange coupler problem with a Kadee product.
I don’t care what coupler manufacturers add to their stuff, since I’ll be replacing it. What gets me ticked off is when I get a RTR car and the coupler box and cover are glued on, and I have to spend 20 minutes trying to pry it off, inevitably breaking something else in the process.
I don’t replace the Accumate, EZmates or other knucle couplers. I use them as they are compatable with Kadees. If there are horn hooks, they get replaced with Kadees. I will continue to buy Kadee couplers for horn hook replacement as I feel Kadees are still the best. However, I think EZmates are very close!
EZmates and Mchenrys(spelling?) require a shim in the coupler box to make them stand correctly.
Kadee couplers are great, but stay away from EZ-Mate. I have several cars with EZ-Mates, and 9 out of 10 of the car have their couplers broken by the end of their first run. Luckily, the one EZ-Mate-equipped engine that doesn’t have any broken knuckles is my K4.
Im with orsonroy. the metal kds hold up the best. Ive tried everything else and they either break bend or warp. When I find a good thing I stick with it. Joe
I only use Kadee. I gave the others a try when they came out and started coming with kits and used equipment I purchased. As others have mentioned, they need shimming, they often don’t have enough spring to keep them coupled in longer trains especially down grades, and I even had some break in half. Just not worth it to me.
Warren
Speaking of R-T-R cars. How do you get atheran R-T-R couplers off.
I replace everything with Kadees before anything goes on the layout. I’ve never had a problem with a properly adjusted Kadee. It’s just too easy not to be sure I won’t have to worry about couplers.
Tom Watkins
It takes major surgery, as the box is bonded together after the coupler is installed.
I do not replace until failure…at that time it is only with Kadee for freight cars.
For Rivarossi passenger cars, I am pleased with the McHenry drop in’s, with metal coil knuckle springs - not the original ones.
I doubt that you’ll ever have an issue with a knuckle coupler with a metal coil knuckle spring. At this time that includes Kadee, E-Z mate II, McHenry’s 2nd generation…
I bought a bag of McHenry couplers and use them on some of the cheaper stuff I’ve picked up, but I do prefer Kadees for their strength–I use them on my locomotives but not necessarily on other rolling stock. I did discover that McHenry’s and the other plastic couplers snap off disconcertingly easily, and they have that annoying droop.
KD and only KD.
nuff said.
I prefer Kadee’s.
Not every freight car has KD’s on them, but at least half of them do. All my locomotives have KD’s though.
The other half have the cheap imitations that they came with. I figure that instead of replacing them right from the start, why not use them until they really are crap. I can usually get a year out of them as my rolling stock gets rotated enough that they don’t get over used.
Gordon
McHenry’s need a thin piece of styrene shim under the shank in the coupler box to eliminate the drooping.
Go Keith & Dale!
Kadee’s are my first and only choice. I tried one brand of plastic couplers, but found that the cast on plastic centering spring took a “set” when left coupled on anything but straight track. With time, the coupler would return to center, but what a pain.
I did not have the problem with breakage others have mentioned, but I did not leave the plastic couplers on my rolling stock very long.
Tom
What he said.
I’ve never had a Kadee fail on me yet. I’ve had two McHenry’s fail on me so far, breaking that is, and at our club we’ve had limited success with any of the plastic couplers. When they’re not breaking, they are flexing up or down, causing seperations on longer, heavier trains.
If everyone compares their coupler to Kadees, there must be something to it…
Well thanks for you thoughts. As a general rule I replace all my couplers on locomotives and freight cars with Kadees. Sometimes I will use one of the plastic ones on a caboose. Its nice to see that people still go to the extra trouble of using a quality product instead of what just comes with the model.
Thanks
Jim
If I had to use one of those funny-looking and operating Kadee compatibles, I would use Kadees as they are the best of that world. Plastic was not designed for stressful operations, which is what a coupler endures.
My layout runs on Sergent Engineering couplers, which are near-perfect scale Type-E couplers (metal, of course). Look much better than anything with a silly trip pin hanging down, and operate just as well (though in the correct manner). http://www.sergentengineering.com