I notice on one of the videos here that Andy uses a pencil to unhook cars.How in the heck does he do that.Is their a place where you place the point of pencil to unhook kadee type couplers.I cant seem to do it.Thanks BOB
I use wooden skewers. Just stick the point in between the couplers and twist.
Enjoy
Paul
It works well with a sharp pencil. Just use the pencil as you would do with a skewer.
Joe
The real key is to have slack between the cars
This releases the couplers so you can then insert the point between the two couplers and twist (the couplers then open).
I use the bamboo stick but usually just catch the air hose and pull it towards me on the rear car and the coupler unhooks once it begin pulling away.
I have my one finger on the car while holding the stick and catch the air hose - very quick and slick once you get onto it!
Again slack is the key!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
As Bob says, slack in the two couplers to be split is most important. I use the engine’s resistance to keep the lead car in place, use a hand to bring the rear car(s) forward enough that I can see some space building between the knuckles, and I insert the fine tip of your typical grocery store thin bamboo kabob skewer into the gap between the knuckles. A quick, but controlled, twirl of the skewer and at the same time gently pull the rear car back away from the lead car. I do mean gently, and not too early…or you’ll have to repeat.
Some of us just reach and lift the leading end of the rear car so that it’s knuckle clears the trailing coupler’s knuckle and then set the moved car back onto the rails. If you haven’t knocked the truck askew, it should be uncoupled and rerailed with minimal elevation.
That’s if you don’t mind handling your cars more aggressively.
Crandell
This is what I do. I find it easier than the stick in the knuckle method. Besides, the stick in the knuckle method does not work very well with passengers cars with diaphragms, and not at all if you are trying to uncouple something with double shelf couplers.
I use the skewers too. Sometimes they don’t behave in the manner intended; then it comes down to “the old 0-5-0” picking up the lead car to be left behind and rerailing it. Also, seems to me that if these couplers have a little Walthers Greas-em (a graphite lubricant) applied to then that they may work a bit better with the skewers.
I’ve always used skewers - it helps that ALL of my couplers are actual Kadees, I’ve had mixed results using skewers with various knockoffs. Ever since the first time I saw Andy post about using a pencil, I’ve been meaning to try it, but I never have any pencils around (mechanical pencils don’t cut it - and if I have a pencil, it’s almost always a mechanical one, habit from college). One of these days I will remember while I am at the store to grab a pack of cheap pencils and try it. One bonus, since ‘lead’ pencils are graphite, every time you uncouple you are lubing the coupler.
–Randy
So that’s it’ the old Swirll Trick that Sienfield used.I tried it and it works perfect.Pretty cool.I used many magnets but sometimes their are places where this will come in very handy.Thanks Bob
I also use the wood or bamboo skewers. However, I think they work just a little better if the points are flattened out a little by sanding.
A pencil is good because it is graphite and luricates away friction, I put some pencil graphite on the last 1/4" of the bamboo skewers for the same effect. What you do is when you spot the car come into it to bunch the slack, insert the skewer between the coupler knuckles and give it a little counter clockwise twist as you back the engine out. You can also use this technique to offset the couplers for what KD calls delayed uncoupling where you can shove a car to spot then back the engine away. Like anything else practice improves technique. Enjoy! John