This may be a pretty simple question, but what do most of you do about uncoupling your cars/locos on your layout? Do any of you use magnetic couplers?
Also, as another question, what would you all suggest I use to slightly weather freight cars?
Yes I do. Just got done replacing all the ones that were not Kadee, best investment I made in months. I do use the magnetic uncouplers in my yardsa and spurs. As for the weathering part, I will let someone else answer that question, thats not my cup of tea!
i’m gonna try weathering freight cars pretty soon. to uncouple- i have a few cars w/ kadee’s but most have “horn-hook” couplers i pick up the end of the car that is to be uncoupled and set it back down on the track. sometimes it takes a little wiggling to get the old h-h couplers unhooked even whipping them down on the concrete floor[B)]
i’m going to try weathering by using rust colored spray paint. i will spray with the can held a few feet away from the car so most the “rust” ends up in creaveces ect.
I use Kadee couplers, but do not use the magnetic feature. Some folks like to use the feature, some do not. Be aware that couplers will not work good with snowplow pilots or on curves(uncoupling).
I use the ‘skewer’ stick method to uncouple them.
Jim Bernier
I’m just now trying to get those uncoupler ramps installed. I’ve found that they work well, but they are very fussy.
-
The couplers really do need to be the right height, and the little trip-pins on the bottom need to be adjusted correctly. Get the Kadee coupler gauge and the trip-pin pliers. While you’re at it, get the “spring pic” for those little springs.
-
The ramps need to be the right height, too. I’m still having trouble with that, because they are not sitting down between the rails the way I’d like them to. From playing with my Atlas code 100 track, I find the ramp sits better on sectional track than it does on flex track. I’ve tried taking a Dremel to the bottom to get it to sit better. The glue is setting now, so stay tuned.
-
The ramps need to be on a straight section of track, at least as long as the two longest cars you will be uncoupling there. Each car should come straight out from the ramp so that uncoupling works properly.
My layout isn’t far enough along yet for this detail, but another old-timer suggested putting something like a telephone pole or signal next to the track at each uncoupler ramp. That way, you can tell where it is even when there’s a train on top of it.
(Edit:)
Oh, yeah. I use India Ink for weathering. Get one of those small yogurt cups, and have your wife eat the yogurt. Fill the cup half-full of water, and add about 3 drops of India Ink. Brush it on with a small artists paintbrush, and let the car sit standing up, so the liquid will settle naturally. Use a bit more on the ends or places you want dirtier.
Ah HA!!! And what should a modeler do if they are not married, Mr. B…or if they don’t like yogurt!!! H-m-m-m-m-m-m??? [:-^] Perhaps a small Dixie ice cream cup, or perhaps getting the girl friend or little sister to eat the yogurt? [#dots]
Anyway, have you tried any of the weathering powders that I see in the catalogs? Thanks for the insights on uncouplers!
Dingoix using spray paint cans to weather cars, engines etc. sounds pretty risky to me. I think the most important thing to do is to get a few really cheap cars and test out your method first. That way, if it doesn’t work out, its not a disaster.
I use the ‘skewer’ stick method to uncouple my cars. I might add magnates later on in some of my sidings but for now this method works for me.
One tip on the uncoupler magnets - the height gauge allows you to set them at the correct height in relation to the rails too (that’s what the little plunger at the other end is for), so it’s not impossible - I use Peco Code 100 and they just sit on the ties, secured with a little CA glue. You can get around the pilot plow problems on some locos too - on one I have (Walthers Dash 8) the Kadee conversion diagram suggests a long-shank coupler for the cab end, which works perfectly in clearing the pilot plow on this loco. Hope this is of use!
Folks,
I’ve read a lot of articles on weathering rolling stock and engines and this past spring, I tried them ALL. What I’m about to describe below is what I’ve found to be a very good method where the results are pleasing to me.
Rolling Stock:
I first remove the wheelsets and place a small drop of Alene’s Tacky Glue in the journals (it’s a thick white glue available in craft stores). The glue will keep spray paint from getting into the journals (the cone-shaped place where the ends of the axles go into the side of the truck). Then I spray the whole car with Krylon’s clear matte finish which I bought at Wal-Mart for around a $1.50 for a 12 ounce can. Be sure to hold the can away from the car as the directions state and spray left and right beyond the car so you don’t stop on any one section and get too much in one spot…it will accumulate and run down the car if you do.
I let the car dry for a couple of days. Then I use Bragdon Enterprises’ weathering chalk, which is great. Go to www.bragdonent.com.
I bru***he chalk on the ends of the car where the wheels would kick up dirt. I lightly dust some chalk on the sides of the cars, close to the bottom. The trick is to look at pictures of real freight cars from the period you’re modeling to get an idea how a car built in 1940, for instance, looked in 1959, which is the year I’m modeling. Also, you don’t want all your cars to look the same…some should be weathered only slightly…others more heavily. I also brush some chalk on the tops of the cars but only a little bit.
Let me mention couplers and wheels. After the Tacky Glue has dried in the journals, it pops right out with a pair of needle-nosed tweesers. The great thing about Tacky Glue is that it doesn’t attack any plastic. It is a great masking agent, like in this case. I paint the sides of the wheels before reinstalling them on the car. I use an acryllic dark gray paint. When that is dry, I use some of the Bragdon chalks to weathe