Couplers

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I would like to convert all my “stock” couplers to Kadee. Went to the website they have a wide assortment. I was wondering which type most MRR’s use.

Thank you in advance…

2

I would say 99% of the people here use Kadee #5’s.

3

I was about to do the same thing Dave. I’m leaning toward Kadee #58s (http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page351.htm) because they are more “to scale.” Kadee #12 is the bulk pack of these.

But I agree with the other Dave, most use Kadee #5s to answer your question.

Scott

4

The #58 are great, however, your coupler height is more critical than w/ the #5. Irregularities and undulations in the trackwork can cause uncouplings easier than using the larger #5. This is also true for longer rolling stock (passenger and long overhang from the truck centerline). I don’t have much trouble using the #58s, but I have seen other club members experience this even on our otherwise fine trackwork.
Bob K.

5

Kadee’s new #148 may be more universal than the old #5’s. Kadee’s website calls for a #5 on the tender of a Bachmann 2-8-0. Well the post in the coupler pocket doesn’t really accommodate the copper spring of a #5. Bingo, in went the #148 with no problem.

With the #148 you don’t have that d [censored] n copper spring to deal with. Coupler and spring are integral in the 148’s. I’ve got an Atlas freight car where the #148 looks to be the way to go.

How do they work even though they look quite similar to the McHenry’s? Much, much better for those who like to use the delay feature of the Kadee magnetic/electric uncouplers.[:D]

I have used the McHenry’s (in a fit of controlling the runaway costs of the hobby! [;)]) and I find that in spite of manufacturer’s claims they are not compatable with Kadees. When uncoupling the McHenry tends to hang up on the Kadee.

But I do agree that most probably use the #5’s, sometimes in applications that Kadee doesn’t recommend. As cited above the #58’s are much more to scale.

Jon

6

#5

7

Dave;

I use the type that fits the best, 90+% are #5. I keep on hand a selection of the 30 series for problem applications.

8

Most modelers probably use #5, more prototypical is the #58, the new #148 has the same size coupler as the #5 but the shank is a tad shorter, I personally like the #58. What ever # coupler you choose from Kadee you are far ahead of the one that you are replacing.

9

jon jon

When KD’s cost less than $1 each how can you justify complaining about cost’s?

unless , of course you are looking for justification or hiding from being ‘cheap’?

In this day of $15 cars and .50 cent/foot track and $6.50 shipping on Ebay) , What could be cheaper? A gallon of gasolene? - Notice these are question’s?

I guess .75 cent McHenry’'s.

10

I use Kadee #5. Thinking about #148 and #58. But why fix it if it ain’t really broke?

11

I tried saving some money once with the plastic knuckle couplers, and ended up with more headaches than it was worth. So I converted everything to Kadee’s, problem solved. I have not checked yet, but there site was being updated last week, it is a real nice web site that gives you all the info you need to what type of engine, or car. And what # coupler to use.

12

Thanks guys… It seems I will go with the #5. Have to buy in bulk since it will be shipped to Hawaii (very expensive rates).

13

I think the biggest bulk-pack they sell is 20 pairs of couplers. When you order them, get a package of #232 Draft Gear Boxes. They’re very cheap, and they allow you to shave off and replace any oddball coupler pockets the Kadee’s won’t fit in perfectly. The package is 10 pairs of boxes. I’m replacing a fleet of horn-hooks, and I’ve used a lot of these things.

Also, remember that Kadee’s are all-metal. Unlike the plastic ones, they need to be insulated from the locomotive body if the engine has metal coupler pockets. The draft gear boxes will do this for you, too.

14

Don,
The runaway cost comment was followed by a wink symbol(as in ha, ha…). As far as I’m concerned McHenry could stop production tomorrow and it would be no great loss.

I tried McHenry’s just to see if there was any merit to them (consumers do that sometimes). Conclusion: Kadee[bow][bow][bow][bow] blows 'em out of the water.

P.S. There have been a number of postings about costs of the hobby; my comment about cost of couplers was playing off those posts. OK?

Jon

15

I have used #5’s for 30 + years , always worked great for me. use 30’s or 20’s in special applications. I am leaning towad trying the 148’s though, they intrigue me, again for special applications.