I need help!!![:(] I don’t know which type of coupler i should go with. I have an LGB train with LGB couplers, but Aristo-craft and other companys have knuckle couplers and I don’t know which one is better.
Kev,
This was discussed not too long ago. You might find this useful:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=-1&TOPIC_ID=52067&REPLY_ID=579601#579601
so aristo craft is the better way to go i found out that but how do you convert LGB coupler to Aristo craft.
Kev360500,
LGB also sells a knuckle coupler for there rolling stock but you will have to do some research to see if it will mate with the other brands. A while back Garden Railways Magazine did an article on the subject so maybe Rene can steer you in the right direction. Most folks like the aftermarket Kadee Couplers.
Good Luck,
Ron
[:)]
ok thanks but do they cost alot im just getting started[?]
Kev360500,
The LGB item number is 64193, they cost $8.79 per set of two. To view them go to www.ridgeroadstation.com, open the TRAIN sectionin the upper left corner. Now in right column open “LGB” and then open “MORE ACCESSORIES” and scroll through the items. Hope this is a help.
Good luck,
Ron
[:)]
I use all aristo couplers. To use on Lgb remove the hook&loop coulper by unscrewing
the screw then cut the little round thingie off the tang file the rough edges then screw the Aristo coupler in the same hole as the h&l Done lots of LBG cars that way.
plus order from San Val $5.00 a Pair AC couplers
Ed
I’ve always had better luck with hook and loop couplers staying connected for outside running.
I have pulled 57 cars plus 2 Mth dash -8 s up a 4% grade with Aristo couplers all week end, no problem
I agree that h&l may stay together better but to me are unsightly and only marginally better in my op.
Ed
Not only are hook & loop unsightly, for one modeling a modern US road with all these fancy roadnames and stuff, they’re downright un-american!
Picture a CSX or Santa Fe diesel (or mued string of them) pulling a raft of cars all advertising firms like Wyerhauser Lumber, Texaco, Hershey’s, Coors, Hormel meats, etc. and all connected with something that looks like Achtung! Look at zeez gut couplers!
I am dissatisfied with my LGB couplers but i am loath to change as i am not convinced the effort and cost will justify the result!
Rgds Ian
Mount hooks to both ends of all the cars and they’ll never (almost never) disconnect.
[:D][:D][}:)][}:)][:D][:D][8D][8D]
Capt Bob, [;)][;)][;)]
You’re absolutely right!
I like Kadee couplers that well that I use them in any scale I model - so far Z, N, HOm, HO and 2m.
Never mind that I model Swiss Meter Gauge, Kadees look more proto after I remove the center buffer to get the close spacing, than those beer bottle openers that come with a lot of the 2m equipment.
There is something to be said for looks combined with perfect performance. [:)][:)] I even use the smaller #1 Kadees, just means I have to pay attention to the track laying, one wouldn’t wan’t to have a rock 'n roll road bed.
Which reminds me, Jens Bang with his Snake River layout (April 06 GR) sure had the right idea for the road bed! Rock steady!!!
A guy in our club has great success with his L** H&L couplers; he supplements them with a fail safe system, rubber bands! Of course, when operating on the fail safe system there appears to be a bit of springiness in the train, especially in negotiating grade changes!
I had bunch of Bachmann coal hoppers with Bachmann knuckle couplers
on them. They kept sliping up over each other and uncoupling ( track too bumpie I guess). As there was a Lowes food store close I bought some twist ties and wraped them around the couplers. No more uncoupling . After I returned home I replaced couplers with Aristo . I now have no problems with uncoupling with the coal hoppers,
on the same track.
I have over sixty cars all of which are fitted with the Bachmann Knuckle Coupling, unlike fitting Aristo couplings to LGB, with trimming to make them fit. The Bachmann retro fits all other brands, Aristocraft, USA Trains, LGB etc, I have just fitted them to my new LGB Sumpter Valley Mallet Tender, undo screw, remove H & L, fit Bachmann , refit screw, Done. Right height and all. Plus they are the cheapest Knuckle Couplings on the market. Bit oversized, but efficient.
Danny If numbers mean anything I have 227 cars some are Bachman, some are AC,
some are Lgb ,some are Mth ,some are USA and all have metal wheels and Aristo craft couplers. The round thing comes off with nippers almost 2 or 3 sec.to do. The rest of the change is the same as yours. I like bachmann couplers and they do fine most of the time, but I don’t have space to have a layout at home and I lease time on a layout owned by someone else. He sometimes does’t keep his track in the best condition . There are
places that cause B couplers to slide over top of each other I find that aristo seem to
not do this. There is a tab on the bottom that prevents this from occuring. This is just what works for me
i use aristo craft most of the time . ben
I use Ozark link and pin couplers, set up as end-beam mounts on some cars and as radial (swing) couplers on others. Link and pin couplers let me interact more with the trains and give my tramway operation a “retro” flavor. The scale Ozark links and pins are expensive and fragile, so they stay inside for display purposes only. On an operating level, I use links cut from decorative chain, brass nails for pins, and big, Cabela salt-water swivels for rotary couplers on my 4-wheel gons. When your G-scale railroad is 200 feet from the real St Lawrence River, you need to use tough hardware and fishing tackle.
My ‘couple’ of pennies (groan). When I started out I decided to use Aristo couplers because of availability and appearance. I decided to use metal wheels in an effort to lower rolling resistance and keep the track cleaner. It’s been six years and of the many decisions you have to make around a railway, these two I have never regretted. The Aristos look right and work well. The only “failure” I have had has been when my Aristo snow plow, loaded with a 4 pound brick, went off an embankment and tried to take the FA-1 loco (18 pounds) with it. The coupler didn’t uncouple. Thankfully it snapped. The Plow in action is at http://railway.skeenapacific.ca/images/20050110-Plowingsnowshortsm.WMV
“Just starting out” is the perfect time to make some choices. Your conversion costs are lowest because you have so little to convert! Once you get a lot of equipment, you end up ‘stuck’ without having made a concious choice just because the cost of changing becomes overwhelming. So far as I can tell, most manufacturers’ couplers work, some look better, some cost a lot. But choose now.