I need help with HO scale couplers. I’m just completing the first stage of trackwork on a room-sized layout and I have a cobbled-together bunch of rolling stock from old layouts and some new additions. I’m sure the couplers aren’t compatible because the cars sometimes uncouple unexpectedly.
Soooo… bottom line, what are the plusses and minuses on the various couplers on the market, and what are you guys’ preferences?
Thank much in advance
The only answer is Kadee, and you will hear that from everyone. They are all-metal construction, very strong and rugged. Kadee makes the standard #5 that will fit almost anything, and a vast array of special-purpose couplers for those hard-to-fit cars and locomotives. They also make the mountings, or “draft gear boxes,” for their couplers. In addition, they make uncoupling ramps and the indespensible coupler height adjusting gauge.
Their web site is http://www.kadee.com and it has lots of additional information.
It can’t be stressed enough the importance of using a coupler guage to check the height and adjust accordingly. Even Kadees don’t work well if they are not setup right.
Thanks much guys…
Anyone else have the problem of Athearn BB kits’ spring clip cover coming off? What did you do to keep this from happening?
Thanks in advance.
Two things can cause this, one is easy to fix: The spring clip itself should be bent at 90 degrees at the sides. If it opens up, you need to rebend it to the proper angle. Also, before reinstalling the cover, clean up the edges with a file. I’ve found these have rough edges from the stamping process that’s used in manufacture of these, and can cause binding.
The second problem is that the lugs on the plastic box cast as part of the frame break off or get worn. The best fix for this is to remove the cast on box completely and screw mount the Kadee box.
Also, see the post above about using the Kadee coupler height gauge.
Thanks Tom.
Study up on the different coupler types Kadee sells. Although the #5 is the most common, they make several different types to solve the variation you run into. Go to their web site and do your homework.
Another good recomendation is to use graphite on the coupler and centering spring. Kadee offers it in a tube. Cut the tip of the tube with the smallest hole possible because it is so fine alot will come out. A little goes a long ways. It also turns everything it touches black. I found a big bottle at a hardware store that is used in chalk boxes. I will never run out using it on my railcars.
I had a whole bunch of cars with the old horn hooks and I wanted to get them all knuckle couplers. I went cheap and bought some plastic ones (magic-mate?) They fit, and sort of work. I am in the process of changing all of them to Kadee #5’s now. [8D]
The Magic-Mate/Accu-Mate couplers work fine, for a while. The problem with them is that they use a small strip of plastic instead of a metal spring to keep the knuckle closed. They lose their tension in a short time. I’ve replaced all of my couplers with Kadees. And, as mentioned by Simon, buy AND use a coupler height gauge. With a little weathering, and some Kadees, you don’t have to toss out that trainset rolling stock.