Hi there. I bout a box of Trains at the York TCA and all of them still have the horn couplers and i am trying to convert to regular couplers but for most of these cars the couplers are attached to the wheelsets. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what type of coupler to buy. Thanks for your responses.
Kadee #5 with draft gear boxes. Cut the coupler boxes off the trucks and body mount the Kadee coupler boxes. I’m sure someone here will be able to provide every detail of the operation. Once the coupler boxes are mounted install the Kadee #5 couplers as per the directions that come with them. It takes a little while but it’s rather easy once you’ve done a few.
I’m in the same boat - I want to replace the hook horn couplers on some passenger cars. My local hobby shop ordered me a bunch of the #52 couplers from McHenry:
http://www.mchenrycouplers.com/
They seem like they will do the trick and I may not have to body mount. Anyone have any success with these?
Kadee has a section on their web site for converting to their couplers http://www.kadee.com/conv/ho.htm
The site covers switching to kadees for truck mounted to truck mounted or body mounted to body mounted. Switching between truck mounted and body mounted is not covered.
Enjoy
Paul
I’ve used the McHenry couplers to replace simple horn hooks before. THey work well for me and are cheaper than the Kadees. They were easy swap outs on newer cars, remove the coupler cover insert the McHenry and snap back on the cover. I have heard if you have loooooong trains or heavy trains {which I don’t} that McHenry and other brands can open up on you after a while.
SO, However, everything I switch now, I am adopting Kadees. I have a body mounted in a “sealed” coupler box horn hook coupler caboose I will have to chop off to install the Kadee couplers. I hope they have everything I need in the #5 KaDee coupler envelope I got to replace the horn hooks and the coupler box!.
The problem that i have is none of them have covers they are all screw mounted so it will be a little harder. Plus i have a long train so Mchenry probably wouldn’t work well.
If you have already bought the McHenry’s try them and see how long they last…They may last you a while they may not. WHo knows? They also “play well with others”.
Mine have lasted me 4 years but I only run 8-10 car trains on my mini HO scale layout.
I just decided maybe that if the KDs are so much better, maybe I’d better spend the extra buck-and-a-half or 2 bucks and get teh KDs and try them out.
Chase (ok, probably not your name, but what else should I call someone whose screen name is Utley26) –
I have a mixture of Bachmann EZ-Mate, Kadee, Walthers ProtoMax, and McHenry couplers on my rolling stock. The Bachmann’s and McHenry’s are not as robust as the others, but I’ve never had any issues with the couplers themselves. I imagine that they won’t last as long, either.
I have a couple of Kadees lying around, and through attendance at various train shows, I’ve managed to acquire about 50 pair of the Walthers ProtoMax for the right price (free!), so I’m using those at the moment. I think any of them should serve you fine.
Since you have a long train make a transition car that has a kadee on one end and a horn hook on the other end. That way you can still run your train(s) while you’re changing the couplers out.
I began to convert several cars from H&H to knuckle about a year ago and haven’t finished yet - matter of time. I have a mixture of wheelset mounted and body mounted boxes. In the beginning I used Kadee #5 and some #26 (some instances required longer shanks). However, I had some problems trying to use the bronze centering spring and so I switched over to #146 and 148 which are whisker-head couplers which I have had some easy success with.
For truck mounted (Talgo) couplers there are two ways to go. Kadee makes couplers to fit every piece of rolling stock manufactured over the last 50 years. They have a what-fits-what list on their website. You will be able to find talgo mount Kadee couplers to fit your cars.
Or, you can convert to body mount couplers. The prototype uses body mount couplers, so your rolling stock will look a little better if you convert. Plus, body mount couplers are more likely to stay on the track during backing moves. The talgo couplers tend to cock the truck sideways and then a flange climbs the rail and the train is on the ground. I usually (nearly always) convert freight cars to body mount. Long cars (passenger cars) often need talgo mount couplers to obtain enough coupler swing on curves.
Conversion is straight forward, secure the Kadee coupler box to the car with glue and a 2-56 machine screw. Don’t glue to coupler box lid on. If you do, you will need to change the coupler in the future, whereas if you secure the cover with screws, the coupler will last forever and never need changing.
TRANSITION CAR mentioned above is GREAT idea! Plan doing just that, when I start converting to sergent Engineering HO couplers. Will run a transition car on each of my 3 locos and change 2 over when last of present small fleet is done. Will keep one transition car to allow immediate use use of any future cars I buy. My 2 cents…TTFN. papasmurf in NH
I’d recommend getting a pin vise and Kadee, or Walthers, 2-56 drill and tap set, plus a set of 1/8"-1/4" screws so you can attach the couplers to your cars without glue.
I used a couple of transition cars for a while and they really take the “ugh” factor out of having to convert couplers, because it becomes a “when and if” project, not a must do.
Limits you a little bit in switching operations, but really, that’s a good tradeoff.
I wouldn’t bother to keep one hanging around after your conversion, though. Most new stuff you buy is going to have knuckle couplers on it, and if not you’ll be such a pro after converting your whole fleet that it won’t take you much time to convert any new acquisitions.
Here are a couple of pages that may help.
Hi!
The previous posters gave you good advice, and I ditto the conversion to KaDees. May I add… Go the the KaDee website and check out the conversion chart. Most of the cars tend to take #5s, but often other types will be preferable.