Is it possible to change the coupler on a diesel? Current coupler is horizontal “grab”/ “clutch” type. Boxcars are all "drop in vertically type. (Terminology correct?) Seems to be no way to remove the current coupler or entire truck.
Thanks.
Sid
Sid,
It sounds like you have the old style ‘horn-hook’ type coupler on that engine,and the current ‘knuckle’ style couplers on the freight cars. Most engines/cars can be converted. What scale is the train, and who is the manufacturer of that engine?
Jim
When you are ready to change couplers, strongly consider KaDee couplers!
Some guys use #5 or spring loaded #148 .
TO know which one to get here is KaDee’s conversion chart, telling you which brand locos and cars need which kind of KaDee couplers:
http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf
The regular KaDee site is here:
http://www.kadee.com/ca/allcars.htm
[8-|]
You can change the couplers on anything. Let’s guess you have HO gauge models. In that case, you want to replace the “horizontal” (horn-hook?) couplers on your engine with Kadee knuckle couplers. Your boxcars will probably work just fine with Kadee couplers on the engine with no changes to the car.
Kadee makes a vast array of couplers. They vary in length, height, mounting style, and material and they right Kadee coupler will fit anything manufactured in the last 50 years. For a locomotive, you want to find the Kadee list of what-fits-what on the Kadee Website, or in the big Walther’s book. Couplers on locomotives ought to be electrically insulated from the frame of the locomotive. The frame is usually electrically hot, and when you get to double heading your locomotives they will short circuit thru the couplers if the couplers will conduct electricity. If you just want to run a single locomotive and some cars, it doesn’t matter.
One very important tool to have when you are changing couplers is a Kadee Coupler Height gage. Without this it is easy to get into a coupler height mismatch situation resulting in mysterious and unexpectd uncouplings.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/380-205
Kadee also makes “underset” anf “overset” couplers which have the coupler head set higher or lower than the usual mid-shank installation. These can be used to correct a coupler mismatch. See this page:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm
Sid,
You can change the couplers on anything… the only question is how hard is it. I’ve ripped out the hook and loop European-style couplers and exchanged them for Kadee #5s on the Thomas stuff from Bachmann. It was a bit of a kludge job, but it worked.
Most new locos come with knuckle (Kadee compatible) couplers installed, and those that don’t usually have them in the box. Is this an HO scale unit?
Definitely get a coupler height gauge (about $6 and worth every penny) before you start monkeying with couplers. Also, be careful what you get. You want a knuckle-type coupler that is made out of metal, not plastic. Kadee and Walthers Protomax are good couplers; Bachmann, McHenry, and Lifelike will work in a pinch, but they’re plastic and will eventually die on you.