This topic has had lots of q’s and a’s before, but I would like to revisit it.
When I (re)started out in this hobby, I bought a NEW Walthers DC starter set that was really nice for only a bit of money. I loved it, until SOON ENOUGH I started seeing the wagons uncouple themselves and to my disappointment, there was nothing I could do about it.
Then someone suggested I but Kadee couplers and I tried that. – NO GOOD - the instructions to replace the plastic couplers were more like the directions on how to do open heart surgery. I tried but the patient died soon enough.
I gave up on US/Can trains and concentrated on European makes where the problem is much less frequent.
I now read about Walthers Protomax magnetic couplers already attched on some pretty economical wagons (under USD$20 on sale).
Question: If I buy these wagons, am I going to go back to having wagons that come apart two days later or can I expect these wagons to couple and stay coupled at least most of the time (nothing is perfect, I know).
Thanks in advance to anyone who may be willing to share info on point.
So, what I think you are saying is that I should give the wagons with Protomax couplers a chance. Am I right?
If so, plastic couplers and Protomax couplers, do they get along? Or should I always have the same type of couplers to join?
As for the height adjustment, given the troubles I had in trying to replace the plastic couplers with the Kadee couplers [:(!] I think for now I will just try new wagons with the protomax couplers and see what happens.
I’ve had good experience with Protomax couplers and have found no reason to replace them with Kadees. They work well with Kadee equipped cars. However, when I obtain a piece of rolling stock with plastic couplers off they come and on go Kadees.
If all of your cars are uncoupling spontaneously, that suggests a track problem in either elevation changes or curvature. Long cars on minimum radius curves will pop right off. A sudden transition from level track to a downhill section will cause couplers to separate.
there isnt anything better than the kadees, most older equipment came with hornhooks, just about anybody’s anybody were flopping them to kadees, so now the manufacturers have their own replacement for the hornhooks because, well, thats what everyone was doin…the kadee knockoffs work fine for starters, I tend to keep them on for a while, but many have attested, switchem to kadee. When you get down to long trains and reliable operation, the plastic couplers will break, or not show the best reliability.
You are not being a pain! The only stupid question is the one you don’t ask. I can’t remember how many times I have had to go back to the forums to ask for clarification on something that I didn’t fully understand. Every time the members of the forums have answered my questions. Be warned, there are a few members who are a bit short in their answers, but just ignore them if they hit you the wrong way. The rest of us are here to help.
Thank you again, Larry, Dave and everyone else. [:D].
It’s very encoraging to read your answers and encouragement.
Interestingly enough, I thought “magnetic” couplers meant the couplers are magnetically attached to each other, so that they would not come apart easily,not simply that they come apart magnetically. [:$]
As for some difficult posters, so far I have not encountered any, but thanks for the tip.
What problems exactly where you having? Kadee makes a coupler for every possible height variation. They even tell you which specific coupler to buy for a specific application.
This is a useful tool for determining proper coupler height:
The Walther’s Protomax couplers are a clone of the Kadee coupler. They might perform as well as Kadee’s, but no better. All Kadee style couplers will uncouple at random unless all the couplers in a train are at the same height. If you have some couplers high and others low, the train will uncouple when it ain’t supposed to. You need a coupler height gauge, which you can buy or make. You check all your cars against the gauge. Low couplers can be raised by putting a #6 flat washer under the trucks. High couplers can be lowered by filing down the bolsters or putting shims under the coupler box.
Once you have all your couplers at the proper height, you can check that the gladhands aren’t so low as to hit the rails in turnouts. And check for missing knuckle springs. The little devils occasionally pop off the coupler and disappear. You can prevent this with a very tiny dab of Duco cement on each end of the spring to secure it to the knuckle. Emphasis very tiny.
Thank you, David for your very precise description on how to get the couplers to dance together. Much appreciated. [swg]
Whether I will be able to actually put your directions into practice, that may be a bit difficult. You see I like to think I have a good head on my shoulders, but I know that my hands …[banghead]
Regardless, I want to give Us and Can trains another try since I do enjoy having these locos and wagons on my (small) layout.
One question, unrelated,: how do I get a signature at the bottom of my name like David has?
Baggio, as others have stated, I don’t think your couplers are the problem. More likely a track or installation issue. Possibly a combination.
Track problem is easy to determine, do the cars uncouple in the same location? If so look at the tracks.
If the uncoupling seems to be random, its likely a car problem. Take note of which cars uncouple and which ends of the cars uncouple. Then take a close look at th3 couplers that are suspect.
A KD coupler gauge is àn immense help here and is easy to use.
As far as adjusting coupler height, just as Dave stated washers can raise them, filing the bolsters can lower them. Except if they are truck mounted.
If truck mounted they can be swapped for “overset” or “underset” couplers to make the needed adjustment. You can also change out the wheel sets for different diameters. Note these tricks can also be used for body mounted couplers, but are your only options for truck mounted.
Generally speaking, mixing truck and body mounted couplers makes problems. Also truck mounted couplers are fine when the train is being pulled, but don’t like being pushed. Body mounted works well in either direction.
Seeing Baggio mention plastic couplers that’s where I would start by replacing those couplers with KD or Protomax. Once changed over and in proper height the cars should stay coupled…If not then it would be time to investigate the track.
I have seen first hand what those crappy plastic couplers do even on perfectly laid track…