I recently got back into the hobby and with my shakey hands it took me a couple weeks to install my first coupler spring. The second one took less than 5 min.
There are only 8 moving parts to a Kadee #5 and four of those, the knuckle, trip pin, spring and body are already assembled. Shims are a matter of buying Kadee washers, or styrene for the car underbody. You absolutely need the gauge. If you have to file anything, remember, you can’t put it back so go slowly and check your work.
I’ve seen heart surgery, even had some myself and this ain’t it.
First of all: HAPPY VALENTINE’S DAY TO EVERYONE!! [U] [:D]
Thanks again for the suggestions.
I do believe the problem is the plastic couplers since there is no pattern as to when the wagons become undone and the small layout was all flat on a table using the track that came with Walthers Trainline set (great track, by the way).
To avoid going crazy, for now at least, I will simply buy some wagons that are not too expensive with Protomax magnetic couplers and see how that goes. If the result is good, I will then keep going. The only issue will be to see if the Protomax couplers will stick to the loco. The latest loco I bought, an economical one with a Via logo on it has “magnetic” couplers. If you like, you can see what it looks like by scrolling down to the bottom of my club web home page - the url is set out in my last post).
Cheers everyone. It’s darn cold today in Toronto -21C (but -31C with windchill). [C]
On the right hand side of the “trains” display, close to the top, is a place to fiddle with your Profile and your Settings. Click on Settings and fill out the “signature” block. My signature block reads thusly:
Really happy that you asked this question as also returning to the hobby but this time choosing something well out of my comfort zone The question of couplers has risen as why the majority of the stock that I’m buying appears to have Kadee couplers but some seem to have the manufacturer s own take on a coupling. Can I add a quick question of my own please. although i’m only at early stages yet and not laid track do I have to replace these own couplers with kadees and if so what is best… 5 or 148?
The couplers are not magnetic. The trip pin (the bit sticking out of the bottom) is made of metal, which allows the couplers to open magnetically. Kadee’s, Protomax, etc all have the same feature. There is no magnetic attraction between the couplers.
I was hoping for a magnetic effect, but such is life. Marklin children’s trains have nice magnetic couplers that work very well - I have never had one wagon go his merrry way.
Kadee invented the magnetic knuckle coupler way back when, late 1950’s. The Kadee patents finally expired in the 1990’s and everyone started making their own clones of the Kadee coupler to avoid having to pay Kadee for the real thing. Most of the clones, at least those with a metal coil spring on the knuckle are OK, they mate with Kadees and uncouple with Kadee magnetic ramps. I only replace them when they break or fail to stay coupled, or mess up in other ways. Right now, hobby shops carry genuine Kadees and some clone couplers as replacements. Since they charge the same for clones and the genuine article, I always buy the Kadees rather than the clones.
David,If a #5 and Walthers Protomax coupler was laying side by side it would be impossible to tell them apart. No need to toss those Protomax like those cheap plastic knockoffs.
Here’s why.
Tough Die Cast Head & Shank
Fits Most HO Equipment
Couplers Fully Assembled - Ready to Install
Separate Metal Centering Spring
Separate Plastic Draft Gear Box (some assembly required)
The protomax couplers have a very slight shiny black appearance compared to the original Kadee, which have a slight shiny graphite color appearance. Almost impossible to tell, and they function the same.